99 SV650 - No Spark

295566

295566

Numbers McGee
I'm working on putting a track bike together, in the form of a 99 SV650. Bike has fuel and compression, but no spark. I'm getting a reading of 12.7ish volts at both terminals of the coil with ignition on, but no spark.

This could be 3 causes:

Bad coils (seems unlikely to me they'd both be bad)
Bad ignitor
Bad signal generator/stator

Brand new battery, fully charged up, brand new plugs. Stripped race harness, so no sidestand switch, clutch switch, etc. Engine cranks over fine, but doesn't try to fire. No backfiring or anthing.

Any idea where to start the troubleshooting? The manual I have isn't a ton of help, saying most of the tests require special tools (beyond multi meter).
 
Last edited:
M

motomania2007

TC/MSF/CMSP/ Instructor
Since you have a modified wiring harness, that would be the first thing i would check to make sure everything that needs to be connected is connected properly.
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
motomania2007 said:
Since you have a modified wiring harness, that would be the first thing i would check to make sure everything that needs to be connected is connected properly.
Click to expand...

Yup pulled the whole harness today and went over everything. No faults and no broken or shorted wires.
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
So I have the harness configured to bypass the key entirely (dont' have one) and the power to the bike is generated by kill switch. Off and the bike has no power, on and everything comes on.

If this was a kill switch issue, presumably the bike wouldn't power on if it was switched from off to on, no?
 
afm199

afm199

Well-known member
295566 said:
So I have the harness configured to bypass the key entirely (dont' have one) and the power to the bike is generated by kill switch. Off and the bike has no power, on and everything comes on.

If this was a kill switch issue, presumably the bike wouldn't power on if it was switched from off to on, no?
Click to expand...

Check the kill switch. And good question about the resistor.
 
89fj

89fj

late braking
My next guess would be check for battery power at primary voltage leads at the coils with the system on
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
89fj said:
My next guess would be check for battery power at primary voltage leads at the coils with the system on
Click to expand...

That's the split O/W wire to the coils, I believe? The other wires going to the coils being B/Y for front cylinder and W for rear. In which case they (O/W wires) have power (12.8ish volts) with system on.
 
89fj

89fj

late braking
I wasn't paying attention to first post.
Is there some kind of tip over switch in the harness? Sounds like there's an open circuit somewhere. Hard to figure out without looking at it in the flesh
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
1st gen SV650 doesn't have a tipover sensor; both sidestand and clutch safety switches were bypassed/eliminated. I'm with you, hoping that it's something simple. Unfortunately there's really not much complexity to the 1st gen, being carb'd, so in theory that should make troubleshooting even easier.
 
afm199

afm199

Well-known member
Check the system ground and whether it is solid. Those symptoms could indicate that the second ground ( one for the frame and one for the system (2)) is loose.
 
D

dmfdmf

Still A Rook
When I want to crank my DL650 without starting (e.g. compression test) I just unplug the crankcase sensor wire so your symptoms are consistent with that. I'd double check the wire and connector between the stator and the main harness. In the attached pic (for the DL650) the wires coming out of the side case should be the three generator phase wires (yellow on my model but I think they were black for the earlier models of the 650) and two wires (green and white) for the sensor.

One thing to check is that on the two wire connector tabs (and its mate on the harness side) are not loose. The male/female connectors are held in place by a small metal tab and it is easy to bend or break the tab if the metal connectors are not aligned when plugging the connectors together. Once the tab is bent or broken the plastic connectors can be tightly seated but the metal tabs inside don't actually touch. The tabs circled in red in the second pic engage a lip in the plastic connector but if these are damaged the connection will fail.

You could test the sensor output while cranking but it is probably in the low milli-volt range and most multi-meters aren't sensitive or fast enough to read that, you'd need an oscilloscope to see the pulsed output. You could also test the continuity of the harness side of the wires back to the ECU but you'd need an ECU connector pin-out diagram to know which wire to test.
 

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295566

295566

Numbers McGee
dmfdmf said:
When I want to crank my DL650 without starting (e.g. compression test) I just unplug the crankcase sensor wire so your symptoms are consistent with that. I'd double check the wire and connector between the stator and the main harness. In the attached pic (for the DL650) the wires coming out of the side case should be the three generator phase wires (yellow on my model but I think they were black for the earlier models of the 650) and two wires (green and white) for the sensor.

One thing to check is that on the two wire connector tabs (and its mate on the harness side) are not loose. The male/female connectors are held in place by a small metal tab and it is easy to bend or break the tab if the metal connectors are not aligned when plugging the connectors together. Once the tab is bent or broken the plastic connectors can be tightly seated but the metal tabs inside don't actually touch. The tabs circled in red in the second pic engage a lip in the plastic connector but if these are damaged the connection will fail.

You could test the sensor output while cranking but it is probably in the low milli-volt range and most multi-meters aren't sensitive or fast enough to read that, you'd need an oscilloscope to see the pulsed output. You could also test the continuity of the harness side of the wires back to the ECU but you'd need an ECU connector pin-out diagram to know which wire to test.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking it may be the generator itself. I have continuity on both sides of the generator wires. When I do a peak voltage test,I only see a few mV like you said. I'm doing this with a multi meter set to peak mode. The manual says I should see at least 3.0V though?
 

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