• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

2005 Kawasaki ZX636 Track Bike

motoidiot

Slidin' is Ridin'
2005 Kawasaki ZX636 Track Bike --SOLD

2005 Kawasaki ZX636 track bike 5088 miles
--SOLD!

The bike:
Ohlins valving in the forks by Kyle Racing
Ohlins Shock
Suspension setup by Dave Moss for ~170lb A rider
Power commander usb
Scorpion Ti exhaust on stock header
Scotts Steering Damper (removed at lower sale price. no longer included)
Vortex rearsets
Vortex clip ons
Renthal grips
Tech Spec tank pads
Stainless brake lines
Galfer 1375 pads
New battery
Galfer rotors front and rear
Armour bodies AFM legal body work
AFM compliant safety wired
Woodcraft side covers/AFM compliant
RK 520 chain
Acumen Gear Indicator
XT Lap timer
Tuned by Kevin Murray at MCE (114whp on pump gas)
All stock wiring appears to be intact. (in case someone really wants to put it back on the street)

Spares:
Stock muffler (for Laguna)
Spare clip-ons
Spare foot pegs
Spare seat mount
Stock shock
Spare levers (I have to double-check that I still have these...)
Dyno Jet quick-shifter (never installed)

History:
I purchased the bike in October 2009 from Mike Flaa (TexWasabi). It has a salvage title from the original owner. As I understand it this was for cosmetic damage. Neither Mike nor I ever transferred the title however there is a clean paper trail. I believe that Mike dropped the bike at some point as evidenced by some rash on the end of the right clip on. I have never crashed the bike. (the gouge on the left woodcraft cover's replaceable pad is from scraping the curb at T-Hill turn 6)

It has been an outstanding track bike for me, allowing me to steadily improve my riding and reduce my lap times while requiring nothing more than standard maintenance and consumables. Thanks to Dave Moss, Kevin Murray and Galfer Brakes the little 636 go’s, turns, and stops amazingly well. It’s not the current state of the art R6, but unless you are already running at the front this bike will not hold you back.

Oil and filter changed every other track day (Motul). Brake fluid changed every fourth track day (Motul RBF600). No disappointments here.

Reason for selling:
The past few years have seen my life head in other directions and I just haven’t made track days my priority. The bike has been stored since 2011, covered, on stands and a battery tender with fuel stabilizer in the tank and started/ brought up to operating temperature about once a month. Sad to see the bike go, but selling it now to fund the engine rebuild for my vintage flat track bike.

What it needs to be ready to ride:
Flush/ change brake fluid
Fresh coolant would be a good idea (water/ water wetter)
Tires (The Bridgestone slicks only have two track days on them however they are old)
Suspension serviced with new fluid (if you’re feeling fancy)

The Photos:

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike%20Nighttime_-8.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike%20Nighttime_-7.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike%20Nighttime_-2.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike__1.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-4_1.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-3_1.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-2_1.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-16.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-14.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-13.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-15.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-12.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-11.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-10.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-7.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-8.jpg

Kawasaki%20Track%20Bike_-19.jpg
 
Last edited:

Phanuel

Confused
I was wondering the same thing. The R6 is joke easy to do in 30 minutes if you have a spare upper injector harness. Does the Kawi have a separate upper loom as well?
 

easter bunny

Amateur Hour
I specifically inquired about running a 636 triple and was told it was against the rules. I believe that may have been addressed for this year, but I never followed up since I decided to go a different route and run my bike in Legacy. Best to check whether it would be legal.
 

dangeranger

Well-known member
I've won a handful of novice 450 races on my crippled 05 this season.
They're an awesome bike when setup well.
GLWS!

Edit: they're also easier to cripple than the r6 because the upper injectors are outside of the airbox, so you don't have to modify the harness.
 
Last edited:

motoidiot

Slidin' is Ridin'
I've won a handful of novice 450 races on my crippled 05 this season.
They're an awesome bike when setup well.
GLWS!

Edit: they're also easier to cripple than the r6 because the upper injectors are outside of the airbox, so you don't have to modify the harness.

Thanks Danger.
This one is setup beautifully. Easy to ride fast!

FYI...
The black smudges are bits of rubber from the track. They come right off with the right cleaner. I just didn't happen to have any in the shop when these photos were taken.
 

zammer

Tripler
I believe AFM ruled this year the 636 can run in 600 prod, and as such the 636 qripple (477?) is legal also. I got this secondhand though.
 

motoidiot

Slidin' is Ridin'
Thank you to all who have inquired about the bike. It is still for sale at this time and I am dropping the price to move it along. $3000 firm.

If it doesn't find a new home in the next two weeks it will go back into storage until spring when I will reconsider what to do with it.

Don't miss the chance to take this great track bike home and make it your own!
 

Adli

Addict
PM sent, sorry for the spam, didn't have the right settings turned on to save sent messages in outbox.
-A
 
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