• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

2004 Audi S4 6 sp sedan

S

samgrylls

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
--- Traded off-site ---

Will consider trades for cool cars/bikes.

More pics here: https://imgur.com/a/03OWCHM

Selling my 2004 Audi S4 6 speed sedan. If you don't know these cars, think of them as Audi's M3, but a bit less track-focused. Feels pretty unique with a rev-happy V8. Great handling and tons of grip without being harsh.

Really clean inside and out, drives nice, everything works. If you know these cars, you know that they all need to get their timing chain guides replaced at some point, which requires the engine to come out (which is why you see lots of cheap high-mileage ones for sale)... just pulled the engine (1k miles ago) on this one and replaced all the timing components with updated parts that should last the life of the car. Also replaced a bunch of other stuff along the way:

- Timing kit including all chains, guides, and tensioners (stock cam adjusters looked good and weren't replaced)
- JHM solid rubber motor mounts with CEL bypass resistors
- New water pump and thermostat
- New clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing
- New clutch slave cylinder
- JHM automatic serpentine belt tensioner and new belt
- New intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
- Fixed intake manifold flap actuator (these get stuck and rob lots of top-end power)
- All fresh fluids: oil, PS fluid, coolant, brake fluid
- New rear main seal
- AC just recharged
- New coolant expansion reservoir

The only issue is a slight oil leak that's really only noticeable when the oil is hot and the engine isn't running. I think I might've missed a spot with the liquid gasket on the rear timing cover. When it's running the crankcase vacuum keeps it from leaking, so you won't run out of oil on the road or anything.

PZPbjww.jpg

8oB3Mn4.jpg

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bddi0rU.jpg
 
Last edited:
soybean

soybean

Tribu Dei Chihuahua
Awesome car, I was shopping these before giving up and buying an EVO X recently.

Curiously how many miles on it?
 
S

samgrylls

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Woops, forgot to include in the original post - it has 143k. But most of the important stuff is much newer than that.
 
S

samgrylls

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Yeah, unfortunately I think it'll have to come out. It just hasn't been annoying enough to me to justify pulling the engine again.
 
strictlyJDM

strictlyJDM

Well-known member
wait a second...is the timing chain on the REAR of this motor? or the exhaust manifolds flipped on this motor(Doubtful)...?
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
strictlyJDM said:
wait a second...is the timing chain on the REAR of this motor? or the exhaust manifolds flipped on this motor(Doubtful)...?
Click to expand...

Yup, it's buried in the bowels of the rear engine meaning that it needs to be pulled and damn near disassembled to access and replace. That's why you'll see so many of this generation of S4's for sale with ~100,000 miles for dirt cheap on CL... they need $5k+ worth of maintenance for the engine to not destroy itself.

Typical German engineering.
 
S

samgrylls

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
295566 said:
Yup, it's buried in the bowels of the rear engine meaning that it needs to be pulled and damn near disassembled to access and replace. That's why you'll see so many of this generation of S4's for sale with ~100,000 miles for dirt cheap on CL... they need $5k+ worth of maintenance for the engine to not destroy itself.

Typical German engineering.
Click to expand...

Exactly right - fortunately the updated timing chain guides are metal and should never have to be replaced again. And luckily there's a lot of forum support with a super detailed engine pull DIY guide. It's definitely possible to pull in a long afternoon if you have the right tools and some friends.
 
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