• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

1974 Super Beetle - Built to DRIVE!!!

rcb78

Well-known member
Asking $6500. I've got an ad posted on the VW site The Samba, probably best to link to it since the list of details are quite long. If VWs are your thing, take a look at the ad, it's worth it. Even if you aren't a fan of Supers, it's still worth looking.

Guess I wasn't supposed to cross post, so details here and pics below.


1974 Super Beetle - Built Weekend Warrior 1915 Price: $6500
After owning the Super for over 20 yrs, I'm finally ready to let it go. It has served me well as a daily driver for over 12 years in the heat of the central valley (Fresno). I moved to the Bay Area in 2009 and it was retired to weekend 'play' duty as life finally caught up with me and I've got to let a few hobbies go as I move on to new projects. I could go on and on with the history, and may talk your ear off if you ask, but let's get down to the details of the 'current' state of the build. Both engine and transaxle have less than 15k miles.
I've got records, photos and online magazine articles featuring a large majority of the work that will go to the new owner.

First off, it's a 1974 Super Beetle, that means it's a regular Type 1 w/ IRS from the windshield back, but has struts up front instead of a torsion beam so it handles like it's on rails. Since it's a '74 it is exempt from Smog testing. Short and sweet, it's got a killer 'built' 1915 with dual 48IDFs and custom 4sp box with a closer 3rd & 4th. 4 wheel disc, coilovers up front and upgraded sway bars on both ends. In this 'trim' it's been more reliable than any of the modern cars my wife and I have owned.
Now for the nitty gritty details, this is going to be a long list...

Front to back..

Headlights are upgraded to Bosch H4s
Pretty much all suspension components are from Jon at Topline Parts in Anaheim.
Struts are MaXX Struts with oil shocks.
Front suspension has been upgraded with a 7/8" oversize sway bar with Energy brand graphite impregnated urethane bushings.
Strut towers are tied together with a Strut brace.
Caster and Camber Adj bushings were used to correct the wheel alignment as the front is lowered about 2". Tires wear normally and the car just carves the twisties.
Both front and rear brakes were upgraded to discs. Rear kit is compatible w/ E-brake.
All wheel bearings are SKF or FAG.
Wheels are Lemmertz Sports wheels, front off a '73 Sport Bug Edition Super Beetle, rear off a Porsche 914. Both are 5.5" wide, front are stock offset to fit under the fenders, rear are 1" offset to widen the rear track for handling, and still fit under the fenders.

Shifter is a Gene Berg Enterprises straight shaft with reduced throw. Shifting is just a flick of the wrist and I've never missed a gear.
Stock speedo with Autometer Tach on left side of dash. Autometer Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Cylinder Head Temp gauges are mounted under center of the dash.
It has an older Alpine CD/Head unit. Front and rear 6.5" Pioneer speakers and a 10" sub with Amp behind rear seat.
Drivers seat is in good condition, passenger should have a new cover installed, no broken springs.

Transaxle (transmission) - 4.12 R&P, 3.78/2.06/1.48/.96 gearing. That's a stock 1 and 2 with a slightly closer ratio 3rd and 4th. 3rd and 4th gears are welded and honed. Hand packed needle bearings and Superdiff with HD side cover. Assembled by Dan Bergen of Central California.
Hand fit CV joints by prepped by me. Energy graphite bushings on rear torsion housings and a 3/4" sway bar was added for stability.

Now for the fun stuff, the engine...

It's a 1915cc, largest bore possible, on a stock stroke. I dropped the compression to 8.5:1 when was using it to drive to the Bay Area while my wife and I were dating. Pull the shims and it'll be back at 9.4 with a .043" deck that will SCREAM at WOT.
Engine case is a CB Performance Pent Roof aluminum case pre-clearanced for a stroker crank. Drilled and tapped for full flow oiling, deburred, blueprinted, etc. The case is made by Autolinea specifically for CB as can be seen by the CB Performance Logo on the lower sump area. Hands down the best aftermarket case for 'big' daily driver engines.
All rotating parts were balanced dynamically by Speed Unlimited in the central valley.
Crankshaft is 69mm stroke orginal German unit with counterweights and prep by DPR in Santa Ana Ca,
Flywheel is 12.5 lightened from Gene Bear Enterprises with a Kennedy Stage 1 clutch (a longer throwout arm was used so it 'feels' as light as stock) with a Daikin organic clutch disc.
Rods are 5.4" Eagle H-Beams (by CB) with ARP hardware.
All bearings are all Kolbenschmidt (German K/S).
CB Performance 2288 Cam - 308d adv, 256d @ .050", .529" @ valve w/ Scat 1.4 forged rocker arms on bolt-on shafts.
Lifters are 2 piece Eaton's ground by CB to match their cam (I had this done in person while touring their facility).
Cam gears are by Competition Engineering out of Phoenix Az.
94mm Cylinders and pistons are Cima/Mahle, balanced by RIMCO in Orange County and the cylinders were worked to give a more solid face against the engine case, with circlip pin retainers.
Pushrods are Chromoly by Gene Berg.
Oil pump is blueprinted and hard anodized by Gene Berg with a Berg full flow pump cover.
External oil filter and 72 plate Mesa oil cooler with electric thermostat controlling the fan and a mechanical thermostat to bypass the cooler completely when cold. -AN fittings all around.
Heads are by AJ Simms of www.lowbugget.com, 44x37.5 stainless valve, 'swedge' design porting flowing over 200 cfm per cylinder with the cam and carbs used. Dual springs were updated with a slightly larger diameter version for valve control, not Chevy large, but not VW small either. All chambers are CC'd and matched.
Match ported intake manifolds with gasket templates that are cut-to-fit. New owner will get the templates.
Carburetors are first Gen Spanish Weber 48 IDFs made when the molds were still fresh.
Ignition is controlled by an MSD 6Al CDI box with a Mallory vacuum compatible, tuneable distributor with electronic pickup (transistorized). Rev limiter is set to 6500 with an actual redline of 7k. The vacuum advance is currently not connected, but if you do highway miles it takes less than a minute to hook it up.
Exhaust uses a Kymco ceramic coated 1-5/8" merged header with an A1 polished stainless steel muffler. Aircooled.net (ACN) sold this as the RKC muffler back when the DRKC was still a big event, it may still be, but I'm out of the loop.
A 1.5qt Gene Berg sump was added to up the oil capacity and control. Sump and oil plate seals are silicone for a no-leak solution.

Passenger side floor pan (full length) has been replaced not too long after I bought the car. Drivers side has had a few patches replaced to maintain the original rigidity under the drivers sear. Both were treated with Eastwood rust encapsulator/preventative primer and then finished with a rubberized coating (like bed liner) and a tar based underbody coating. I chased after every other bit of rust I could find at the time, sanded down to metal, treated with Eastwood product and in most cases called it good. Anything visible cleaned up and resprayed, not visible I just made sure it was sound. This was never meant to be a trailer queen, it's solid and that's all I cared about.

Really the only thing left to do is clean up the paint job, it was never a priority for me as I really just enjoyed driving the car. It doesn't look bad at all, but it could use some finishing and a re-spray. I've owned the car since 1996 and personally put over 150k miles on it. The engine and transmission were fresh before I parked it when I moved to the bay area in 2009. I drive it once or twice a month to keep everything in good shape, change the oil, check valves, etc. There is no way I'll ever come close to getting back what I put into it, add up the prices for the stuff listed above and the parts alone are worth a small fortune. But since I'm not driving it anymore, I'd like to see someone else enjoy it the way I used to. It really is a fun car that will put MANY modern cars to shame.

CASH only, this means you need to be local or we find some reasonable middle ground. Clean title in hand. I will pay tags due in Oct so you're good for the year.

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Last edited:

auntiebling

megalomaniacal troglodyte
Staff member
Asking $6500. I've got an ad posted on the VW site The Samba, probably best to link to it since the list of details are quite long.

right, but 3rd party sales site links aren't allowed. so please edit your ad to remove said link.
 
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