The Charging System Thread

Aluisious

Well-known member
Anyone know a good way of testing a regulator/rectifier without the bike it's for?

I hooked one up to an AC power source and measured the regulator output but that's not 3 phase.
 

ALANRIDER7

MeowMeowMeow
Anyone know a good way of testing a regulator/rectifier without the bike it's for?

I hooked one up to an AC power source and measured the regulator output but that's not 3 phase.

Use an ohm meter to test the diodes.

The charging voltage is variable through the regulator. It has to be hooked up to the battery it's charging in order to check whether the regulator is functioning properly.
 

H.D.30-06

Well-known member
Great thread Alan. Even though my ride is a Harley with a 2 wire stator instead of a 3 wire the basics are still the same. Here is a pic of my recently roached rotor. [ stator got roached too]

401425954.jpg
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5 magnets stayed in place no 6 is the loose one off to the right.
 

Aluisious

Well-known member
Use an ohm meter to test the diodes.

The charging voltage is variable through the regulator. It has to be hooked up to the battery it's charging in order to check whether the regulator is functioning properly.

Diodes are good, yep.

The bike came with a bad RR. Tested the stator as good, harness to battery is good, new battery and the last one was OK anyway (cranked a Honda Accord with it this weekend, hah). I got another RR used with 6k miles, but I'm only getting 13.0V at 4-5k, and that's not more than idle. I think it might be a dud but I was curious if there was a test other than getting yet another one to see if that works better.

Thinking of getting an aftermarket part.
 

mototireguy

Moto Tire Veteran
Diodes are good, yep.

The bike came with a bad RR. Tested the stator as good, harness to battery is good, new battery and the last one was OK anyway (cranked a Honda Accord with it this weekend, hah). I got another RR used with 6k miles, but I'm only getting 13.0V at 4-5k, and that's not more than idle. I think it might be a dud

What were your actual stator voltage output numbers?

Yes 13vdc at the battery when the bike is running at 3-4k rpms won't charge the battery. You want to see 14vdc.
 

ALANRIDER7

MeowMeowMeow
Diodes are good, yep.

The bike came with a bad RR. Tested the stator as good, harness to battery is good, new battery and the last one was OK anyway (cranked a Honda Accord with it this weekend, hah). I got another RR used with 6k miles, but I'm only getting 13.0V at 4-5k, and that's not more than idle. I think it might be a dud but I was curious if there was a test other than getting yet another one to see if that works better.

Thinking of getting an aftermarket part.

13.0 volts is too weak.

What were the AC outputs from the stator at 4,000rpms?
 

Aluisious

Well-known member
Stator was putting out around 50-60 V AC across each pair of the 3 outputs at 4kish RPM. Seemed right at the time. Even put a beefy resistor in parallel with the meter to load it.
 

MikeyRocks

Free Dickbutt
Just replaced my stator, which was roasted, and I'm only getting 11.8-12.2 when the bike is running, which means it's still not charging the bike. Is it possible that my R/R also needs to be replaced? Or did I buy a faulty stator?

Sidenote rant: Just spent 2 1/2 hours trying to swap out the stator, and when I finished, I took the bike for a test ride. Came back, and noticed one of the bolts was loose and leaking a bit of oil, so I go to tighten it, and the bolt broke. Now I have to open it up again to take out the broken bolt. FML :mad
 
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om4

Active member
mosfet

Just swapped out the old RR with a Mosfet type (Shindengen FH020AA) on my 999. The stock RR was buried in the battery box near the front header, and being the Shunt type, it was getting very hot and unstable. Made a simple aluminum holder and secured it on the horn bracket mounts. Now it's running cooler with consistency in charging voltage! Thanks for the great info referred in this thread :thumbup

IMG_7488.JPG
 

channelcat

Banned
so what equals a short trip? i ride 3.5 miles each way riding around 6k RPMs.

not sure here, but I think how many times you need to light your stoplight, turn signals, etc. has a contributing effect.

I was wondering if there is any truth to the rumor that connecting a meter in parallel from the negative terminal to the case ground, showing current above that required for whatever memory, clock functions, etc. the bike has could be a tip off to a short, if the stator tests come back negative.
Also, to point out, in older bikes, yeah, its me here, connectors and wires in the charging circuit with any corrosion, gudge, broken wires, etc. might impede the battery from receiving full voltage. just my 2 cents.
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
Just swapped out the old RR with a Mosfet type (Shindengen FH020AA) on my 999. The stock RR was buried in the battery box near the front header, and being the Shunt type, it was getting very hot and unstable. Made a simple aluminum holder and secured it on the horn bracket mounts. Now it's running cooler with consistency in charging voltage! Thanks for the great info referred in this thread :thumbup

IMG_7488.JPG

And excellent modification to make and well executed as well. :thumbup
 
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