Pakistan 2019: A Ride Report?

Mellowtonin

Old Enough to Know Better
Day 11

With no guarantees that Babusar Pass, which had been closed for days due to heavy snow fall - would be open in time to let us thru, we set off early from Astore.

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Regrouping at the intersection between Astore Rd. and the by now familiar Karakoram Highway, our guide Moin gave an impromptu demonstration on how to make sweet donuts on a motorcycle.

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Then we rode across the desert section of the KKH at race speed to Chilas, by now we were all well versed in dealing with local highway traffic, the riding was a bit reckless that day... :laughing
We stopped at the outskirts of for snacks and Fuel, I'd became a huge fan of Lay's Masala flavored potato chips and the Red Chili Jhatka Kurkure's by this point. If any of the readers know of a Bay Area Pakistani supermarket that carries these, please PM me!

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Moin had to make some phone calls but in the end his connects got us thru the Chilas checkpoint. The local police station/magistrate came out to inspect the two Alex's with the American passports, he wasn't exactly friendly...barked at Alex#1 to "clean his nose" and gave me a quick lecture on how the Pakistani people are just as accomplished as the Chinese. :dunno

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The villages below Babusar Top showed obvious signs of damage from the heavy snowstorm just days before, every villager was outside lending a hand on the rebuilding effort. I was finally successful reciprocating the high fives as I rode past a couple kids standing on the road side, might've slapped too hard though!

Expecting very cold temperatures, we made a brief pit stop to layer up.

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The sound of our motors and the obvious "foreigners on an adventure ride vibe" attracted curious villagers from the surrounding, steep hill sides. Especially the little kids (grade school to kindergarten age) who were working the fields.

That is one thing which I could never get used to, child labor that is rampant in developing countries. From 10 year-olds peddling boiled eggs and coconut strips along roadside stops, to the toddler carrying bails of produce in the remote countryside. However, knowing that a portion of our trip with Moin goes to funding schools for impoverished girls, definitely made me feel like I was doing something to help.:)

In any event, as luck would have it I took my favorite photograph of the trip during this stop, I hope the girls in red were able to enjoy the Kirkland granola bar I'd offered in exchange!

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By the time we climbed to the top of the Pass there was snow and ice everywhere, temperature had dropped to below zero. Here's a comparison between then and the first time we'd crossed:

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Exhausted from Deosai the day before, we decided to blast our way straight back to Naran (where we stayed the first night after Islamabad).
With no time to dillydally, there weren’t anymore photos from the afternoon. But here are some pictures taken during our first time thru Babusar pass when it was nice and :cool.

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budman

General Menace
Staff member
Temps below zero... yikes!!!!

Never even been close to that. You crazy bro. :loco
 

Mellowtonin

Old Enough to Know Better
Day 12

The epic adventure was almost over :(, we were only a full day’s ride away from Islamabad. After 11 days of sketchy motels and non-stop traveling, the boys finally mutinied and reached a consensus - we were all too tired and beat up to be in a hurry going anywhere. Instead, we slept in for a suuuuuuper late breakfast in Naran, thus dividing the remaining journey into a leisurely two day pace.

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Moin being a gentleman and slept on the couch, so his roommate can take the ultra deluxe bed at the Maisonette Hotels & Resorts all by themselves:teeth.

Leaving Naran we came upon the first military checkpoint which took Moin by surprise for the duration of the entire trip. After showing our papers the MP’s let the Brits, the Americans, and the Canadian thru, but chose to briefly detain and question one of the local riders in our group for looking too suspiciously“Indian/Punjabi Sikh” :wtf. Poor Baba, he was the "starving artist" of the group, the hate between Pakistan and India is real y'all!
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Unlike the first day we had gorgeous weather for a change, I was captivated by the sparkling Kunhar waters as we rode alongside the river back to Balakot.

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Looking at the House of Khan in the hills across the valley, I noticed how different the lush greenery looked compared to what we had experienced in Gilgit-Baltistan. It's a subtle reminder that even after all the amazing memories of the last eleven days, I've only seen one little region of Pakistan!

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Filling up at the gas station in the suburbs of Abbottabad, I found a stray dog sleeping peacefully underneath a parked car. According to my new Pakistani friends, dogs are unfortunately looked down upon by many non-educated locals as an "unclean" animal. We saw so many strays during our trip, only 2~3 well groomed, pure bred pet dogs (including Sky from Hunza). Cats seemed to be the preferred, culturally acceptable pet in the remote villages we went.

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We had a wonderful lunch - I had the Fillet 'o Fish and a Pak only, Bun Kebab Sandwich at the Golden Arches which for once, did not disagree with my stomach (thank goodness as I’d ran out of Imodium). And yes if you scrutinize at the photo, that is indeed a metal detector as well as a security guard at the entrance! MickyDee's counts as fine dining in this part of the world:thumbup

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We ended the day crashing at Mr. Bangash’s family mansion in Abbottabad for the night ~ back to the luxuries of civilization!
 
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Mellowtonin

Old Enough to Know Better
Day 13

Final Day and Unlucky #13

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Thanks to Mr. Bangash, our stay at Abbottabad was in the lap of luxury. Servants brought out trays of exquisite sweets, chai, and freshly made omelettes with crispy paratha, it was quite the feast. The boys stayed a bit too long singing a rather poor rendition of Dil Dil Pakistan and My Heart Will Go On, I think none of us wanted to leave. Finally at one past noon we loaded up our gear and said farewell to Mr. Bangash, who lives in Abbottabad and was ready to head out for Friday prayers.

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Throughout our journey, we've heard Alex#1 (who is riding Pakistan for the second time) repeatedly reminisce just how bad ass the Barfistan 2015 trip was. That it was packed full of SuMo riders complete with a plethora close calls and spectacular crashes. Not wanting to be outdone by anyone, our group ended up saving the worst crashes for the last day.

40 minutes after leaving Abbattobad, Baba G had an awful accident, smashing head-on into the oncoming car. I was barely able to avoid running him or his bike over, gently low siding in the process.


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Thank the Gods that the happy go lucky Baba somehow managed to avoid any serious injuries! Guy was discharged by the hospital the same afternoon and completed the journey riding cupcake behind Mohy...arriving at Islamabad only a few hours after the rest of the group! After all, he was the one asking me to edit and post the crash video to share with his friends~

Maybe it was just a very unlucky day, but a little more than an hour after Baba's crash, as we turned onto the serpentine Murree Rd., 70 year old Michael Kareem Khan from Canada suddenly lost grip on both tires and went down HARD. We think he must’ve hit an old oil spill on a tight, downhill turn. Poor Kareem, he was in debilitating pain after the traffic stopping crash and had to finish the journey inside the Honda service van. With two riders hurt and not able to finish the ride, the few of us remaining decided to ride back at a snails’s pace, not to tempt fate again. At the top of Namli Maira, I was able to get real close to the feral monkeys famously populating the mountain.

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As Moin had promised since Naran, we stopped to rest at a real legit Gloria Jean’s coffee once we hit Lower Topa in Murree. The cafe owner had the prettiest kitty cat I’d ever seen - with blue and green eyes!

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Alex#1 was quite the pussy magnet! Fawad & Fahad, the UK Boyz~

After coffee we hopped onto the Murree-Islamabad Expressway at sunset, it was the most terrifying experience. Imagine a freeway at night with no street lights, hidden pot holes, people hopping the barriers crossing on foot, and donkeys running on the shoulder.

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First thing we did after arriving at the capitol city was taking Michael to the E.R., where the orthopedic doctor diagnosed 3 fractured ribs based on X-ray. Mike ended up staying another 2 weeks in Lahore to heal, but he was able to represent Canada and play in the Ambassador’s Cup polo match after all, which was the reason why he was in Pakistan in the first place. Surprisingly, he actually won! Supposedly, the drugs prescribed by the doctors in Islamabad were "very good"!

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Welp, every story has it's ending, the Pakistan adventure had been surreal. After a delicious gourmet burger dinner at Cannoli's (future trip attendees, definitely asking Moin to take you there when in Islamabad), we all said our reluctant goodbyes and went on separate ways. In many ways, I had the time of my life for the two week long adventure, I'd made some amazing friends not to mention some truly unforgettable memories.

A big thanks to Moin and A Different Agenda, without you any of this would've not been possible.

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My favorite group photo...

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I survived two weeks in Pakistan and all I got in return was a lousy can of beer!


For those that enjoyed the pictures posted so far, here's the link to the photo album with full sized pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5eLxSfrFAgEc3UxN7
 
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TwistedGRAY

<insert title here>
I always enjoy seeing what someone takes with them on trips like this. Do you have a photo of before with the pack laid out? Would be interesting.
 

Mellowtonin

Old Enough to Know Better
I always enjoy seeing what someone takes with them on trips like this. Do you have a photo of before with the pack laid out? Would be interesting.

Sorry no individual luggage photos from before, but after my 11 day motorcycle trip in Spain and Sardinia last year, I learned that just bringing one oversize backpack equals to having to wash laundry in the shower every 4~5 days :thumbdown.

Since we had a dedicated nanny truck this time around, I packed heavy (30" tall luggage) including: 12 days worth of clothing, 3 boxes of baby wipes:laughing, one bulk box of Kirkland "Kind" bars, my Macbook Pro/backup drive and GoPro 5 gear, a full medicine cabinet of cold/flu/ibuprofen/pain killer and of course Imodium, my Rev'It mesh jacket, Klim Dakar pants, Sidi Gore-Tex boots, and Gore-Tex rain jacket/pants. I'd also carried a backpack with me so I'd have access to my stuff for the days when the truck was trailing hours behind the motorcycle caravan.

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Luggage pile for the group every morning.

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Loading the Nanny truck...
 
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atoyf

Well-known member
so awesome Alex, thanks for sharing! Good for you for taking the trip! :ride:thumbup
 

Butch

poseur
Staff member
This part of the world is fascinating.
I can’t figure out how to linky, but I just came across this on NPR...
Much is expected of Karakoram Highway, which curls through the tall mountain ranges of northern Pakistan, reaching western China. Both countries are renovating it, seeing its potential as a trade route. Pakistan also views it as a way to consolidate control over territories contested with India.

But some of the 500-mile route is barely a two-way road, carved out of the rock face that slopes sharply into valleys below. It is battered by rockfall, floods and earthquakes. A landslide in 2010 blocked a river and drowned about 14 miles of the road. In heavy snowfalls, the road all but shuts down.

The riskiest part is the last stretch to China. "We can actually call this part of the road...


Edit, linky
https://www.npr.org/tags/787806142/karakoram-highway
 
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UDRider

FLCL?
That part of the highway is rebuild. So now they are long ass tunnels with no lights. Lol

The rest of the road is fine too. It's one lane, but on good shape for now.
 

budman

General Menace
Staff member
Sorry no individual luggage photos from before, but after my 11 day motorcycle trip in Spain and Sardinia last year, I learned that just bringing one oversize backpack equals to having to wash laundry in the shower every 4~5 days :thumbdown.

Since we had a dedicated nanny truck this time around, I packed heavy (30" tall luggage) including: 12 days worth of clothing, 3 boxes of baby wipes:laughing, one bulk box of Kirkland "Kind" bars, my Macbook Pro/backup drive and GoPro 5 gear, a full medicine cabinet of cold/flu/ibuprofen/pain killer and of course Imodium, my Rev'It mesh jacket, Klim Dakar pants, Sidi Gore-Tex boots, and Gore-Tex rain jacket/pants. I'd also carried a backpack with me so I'd have access to my stuff for the days when the truck was trailing hours behind the motorcycle caravan.

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Luggage pile for the group every morning.

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Loading the Nanny truck...

So they brought a truck for your luggage... What about everyone else? :twofinger :laughing

Fun read man... that for the allowing us to be a carry on. :teeth
 

Mellowtonin

Old Enough to Know Better
so awesome Alex, thanks for sharing! Good for you for taking the trip! :ride:thumbup

Thanks Anton, super glad you guys enjoyed the ride report.


This part of the world is fascinating...

Recent years China has been pumping a lot of money into the C-PAC project, probably due to funds readily available from the current regime's Belt & Road Initiative. KKH closer toward China border was actually some of the best paved roads of the entire trip:rofl But right outside of Chilas, as seen from the beginning of my video, the surrounding sands/desert seems to have covered sections of the KKH every couple clicks.

So they brought a truck for your luggage... What about everyone else? :twofinger :laughing

Fun read man... that for the allowing us to be a carry on. :teeth

That's what the Honda service wagon was for:laughing
Thank you :thumbup, gonna try to finish the Sardinia report from last year before X'mas...appreciate the readership:party
 
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