Major lightening help

[r1champ]

looking to drop some pounds on the 2001 R1, ive tried slimfast but it makes the bike run like shit so this is what im thinking..

removing:

battery (that fuckers heavy)
starter (will be replacing with this http://cyclecat.com/MS1-1.htm )
also removing most of her wiring


already cut out half of the subframe (towards the rear)
and will be getting lighter rims and thinner chain and sprockets

what else can i do, ive been just walking around her looking for things to chop off..

 

[rsrai]

what about the rider going on a diet?
diff rotors? c/f fenders, body panels. no mirrors, turn signals, etc.
and less air in the tires.

 

[r1champ]

mirrors and lights are already gone (profile pic is old) airtech skins all around, fenders are already carbon fiber (dont waste your money on these, their not much lighter at all)

 

[r1champ]

oh and i only weigh 160 lbs, and im 5'9" can get any smaller that that or ill fly away,,



help me,, must shed pounds on R1

 

[magyarbetyar]

Magnesium or Carbon Fiber rims
Ditch the kickstand
CF handlebars
Aluminum/titanium fasteners


This is going to be strictly a track bike. . .correct?

 

[r1champ]

yup kickstands off already, and got the ty fasteners aswell.. getting light rims soon, not sure which ones yet, might go carbon.. all this carbon fiber stuff is bullocks i think, everything i have thats carbon fiber has barely any difference in weight. the only thing ill consider getting c/b is a tank and or rims..

 

[theSteveCo]

No kickstand? I've got a centerstand you can borrow!

Damn, bro -- you're hardcore!

 

[magyarbetyar]

I have held the CF rims that DYMAG makes and they are LLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHT!!! I held the rear and it felt about heavy as a 2D cell mag light. . . .if that, if that give you any idea.

My only concern with CF rims is that their crash survivability is pretty low IMO. I would personly opt for the MAG rims.

 

[theSteveCo]

My only concern with CF rims is that their crash survivability is pretty low IMO. I would personly opt for the MAG rims.

It's not like my aluminum wheel held up well. :toothless

 

[r1champ]

ide get the c/b hadle bars but they bust easy whenever i crash so i tend to buy alot of them, anybody got any links to what they do to superbikes or GP bikes??

 

[r1champ]

ive held the c/b rims over at redwood city yamaha, and hell yeah, light as a feather, but just like you said their crash survivability is pretty low, thats why im thinking twice about those..

 

[magyarbetyar]

They probably use material like Scandium. It is a super strong and light as hell material that the Russians used on the ICBMs directional fins. The titanium couldn't stand up the the radical temp changes at altitude i.e.:space/reentry.

They also make mountain bike setpost out of the stuff. Very pricey though.

 

[morthrane]

Obviously lighter wheels and rotors will have a better effect in handling than any weightloss in the suspended part of the bike...

I think yoyodyne sells a Titanium rotor for the rear wheel... not as much bite or stopping power, but most track guys don't use that rear brake either. Reduced spinning mass, wheeee!

They also have titanium fasteners and replacement bolts, but I seriously doubt that will result in any appreciable weightloss. Titanium axles might be good for that, seeing as its unsprung weight.

CF non-ram-air (I hear for tuning purposes they're worthless, too hard to dial in or something) box is something you can put on maybe.

Lighter weight engine covers, lighter forged aluminum calipers that may give you better braking performance (maybe Brembo?). From the talks I've had with shop guys, cutting out as much revolving and unsprung weight seems to be the king all-- more effective acceleration and better handling. According to some, more useful than more horsepower too, sometimes... (gasp! heresy!)

 

[MrCrash]

I've played the racebike weight savings game before. For me, after a certain point it's just not worth the trouble.

But, here's what I have done in the past to race machines of mine:

Ignition module can be replaced with a lightweight switch

Starter can be removed.

Flywheel magnets can be removed, flywheel can be turned down on a lathe.

Subframe can be replaced with lightweight aluminum aftermarket piece.

Wiring harness can be replaced with essential wires only once starter is removed. There are about four of those wires on an SV650.

Battery can be replaced with lightweight aftermarket battery with lighter materials, or with a smaller battery that holds no more charge than is necesssary.

Ti exhaust.

Fan removal.

Rims are $$$, a friend of mine who used to hold the AFM #7 plate put a set of magnesium Marchesini wheels on his GSXR750 for one year. They felt lighter, but his times were identical. After the year was over, he had them inspected. One had a crack in it, it was junk. Not a good investment.

If you're racing the bike, the starter comes in real handy when waiting on the pre-grid, or to bring the bike back to life after a red flag situation.

- Mike

 

[ninja_rydr]

I think you may have your "F" key mixxed up with your "B" key

Originally posted by r1champ

"ill consider getting c/b is a tank and or rims"...

"ive held the c/b rims"

 

[r1champ]

thanks MrCrash907, thats what i was looking for..

your the man!!