Enclosed trailer guys, needed inside

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
Looking at having an enclosed trailer built that can double as something you can have at the track and be comfortable sitting inside out of the heat. This is really a smaller is better thing for me (no toy haulers) because currently a 24' trailer is all i have and it's too long for me to want to hook up to if i want to get a bunch of lumber at home depot for example (truck bed isn't really an option).

Really wanted like a 14'x8.5' trailer but the salesman is telling me the generator box takes up a bit of interior space so now I'm thinking 16'. Should be long enough for lumber and long enough to fit a few bikes in.

I'll list the options I'm looking at below, what i need you guys for is to tell me what it is you really wish you had or have in your race trailers that'd make life a whole lot easier while hanging out at the track that i might not have thought about. Please keep in mind i don't want anything longer than 16'

Thank you!

- NEW 8.5x16 Tandem Axle Covered Wagon Cargo Trailer w/ V-nose, White or Black, (2) 3500# Axles w/ Electric Brakes, 6'6" Interior, (1) LED Interior 12V Light, 36" RV Style Side Door, Ramp Gate Rated at 4,000lbs, 1 Piece Roof Upgrade, Radial Tires, LED Lights, 3 Year Warranty on Trailer, 6 Year Warranty on Spring Axles, 5 Year Warranty on Tires, 1 Year No Excuses Tire Warranty - $5,199+TT&L
- 7ft Interior Height Upgrade - $200
- 5200# Spring Axles Upgrade w/ 225 Radial Tires - $600
- Upgrade Axles to Torsion Axles - $400
- 13,500 BTU A/C Unit w/ Heat Strip, Wiring and Bracing - $1,200
- 30 Amp LED Electrical Package - $400 - (2) LED Lights, (2) Outlets, Light Switch, Breaker Box, 25ft Life Line, 30Amp Plug
- 36"x30" Generator Door w/ Venting and Box and Lockable Door - $725
- 12" Centers in Floor Upgrade - $160
- Upgrade Ramp from 4,000lb Ramp (Standard) to 7,000lb Ramp - $350
 

Mario

Well-known member
Best upgrade I've done to my trailer was to insulate. I was able to chill in the hot days at the track without an AC. Without insulation, the trailer was as hot AF. Don't know if that matters much once you install an AC though.

zDKGnYv.jpg
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
Best upgrade I've done to my trailer was to insulate. I was able to chill in the hot days at the track without an AC. Without insulation, the trailer was as hot AF. Don't know if that matters much once you install an AC though.

zDKGnYv.jpg

yes, insulation is a must!! thanks for the tip :thumbup
how long is yours if you don't mind my asking
 

Mario

Well-known member
yes, insulation is a must!! thanks for the tip :thumbup
how long is yours if you don't mind my asking

She said it is too damn short.... :laughing

Mine is a 6x10 single aluminum trailer. It is really too small. I carry three bikes to the track (two sportbikes and a supermoto in between) and there is not a single inch left of space. If I were to do this again, I would go for 7.5x14 minimum tandem and 7'+ tall for a happijac bed lift.

wUSAYjm.png
 
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JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
She said it is too damn short.... :laughing

Mine is a 6x10 single aluminum trailer. It is really too small. I carry three bikes to the track (two sportbikes and a supermoto in between) and there is not a single inch left of space. If I were to do this again, I would go for 7.5x14 minimum tandem and 7'+ tall for a happijac bed lift.

wUSAYjm.png

Thanks for the pic, this really helps. I realize you can never have too big a trailer when you're in and out of it, but you sure as sh*t can have too big a trailer when you're hauling it around :laughing

:port
 

cg_ops

1-Armed Bandit
My trailer is pretty great - I ALMOST wish I'd opted for the bathroom/shower option, but for $5k I'll deal with stinky THill water.

Things I'd do differently...
  • More plugs!! I've been surprised how quickly I run out of plugs (I have 2 front, 1 rear, 1 outside the RV door
  • More 12v wiring - there's lots of little things I'd like to run off of 12v when I can't be running the genny or plugged in
  • Slide tray in the genny box - not having to lift the beast would be very convenient
  • Dimmable lights - the shop lights are great but I don't always need daylight to find by binky at 2AM
  • Recessed e-track... it's a tripping hazard and a menace to sliding things around
  • Happijac bed - they're freaking awesome, but weren't available when i ordered my trailer https://happijac.com/bed-lifts.html

X1ws1ap.jpg


BrprqHZ.jpg


hlz19g5.jpg
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
My trailer is pretty great - I ALMOST wish I'd opted for the bathroom/shower option, but for $5k I'll deal with stinky THill water.

Things I'd do differently...
  • More plugs!! I've been surprised how quickly I run out of plugs (I have 2 front, 1 rear, 1 outside the RV door
  • More 12v wiring - there's lots of little things I'd like to run off of 12v when I can't be running the genny or plugged in
  • Slide tray in the genny box - not having to lift the beast would be very convenient
  • Dimmable lights - the shop lights are great but I don't always need daylight to find by binky at 2AM
  • Recessed e-track... it's a tripping hazard and a menace to sliding things around
  • Happijac bed - they're freaking awesome, but weren't available when i ordered my trailer https://happijac.com/bed-lifts.html

X1ws1ap.jpg


BrprqHZ.jpg


hlz19g5.jpg

Very nice :thumbup
 

Mario

Well-known member
Not exactly interior but works with the stuff you have inside. I have added 2x 250W solar panels and 2x marine lead acid batteries, enough to run all 12V fans, electric cooler, laptops, etc. Useful when you don't want to fire your genny or want to be quiet at night.

+1 on recessed e-track, reason why i have none in mine

I also replaced fixed intensity lighting with dimmable LED strips, in and out. Works great at night when you need a dim light

Future upgrade: screen door! For those days that there are a thousand flies or bugs at THill. Pair with dimmable light and you can spend a bug free night at the track

ilnSsxT.png
 

cg_ops

1-Armed Bandit
Mine is 24L x 8.5w x7 .5h

It's overkill for my needs but the price difference was minimal from the 18-20ft models. So far my record is 6 bikes in it without tearing down the bunk beds
 

stubble

let's moto!
A little late to this party - did you get a trailer?

Mine is an aluminum 6x12 with a 2’ v-nose and single 3500lb axle. It was a bare trailer and I did a budget toy hauler build: small RV power setup with shore power hookup and solar. 12v lighting, roof fans, and 12v fridge, and 110 outlets inside and out. Recessed e-track, a small cabinet with countertop in the nose, and full insulation. About 6k into it.

This size is big enough for two full size bikes plus gear, and I sleep on a roll-out portable mattress on the floor.

I wish it was bigger on the inside, but its functional and i can take it anywhere with almost any tow vehicle with no hesitation.
 
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ThinkFast

Live Long
Out of curiosity, why? I had a trailer with barn doors and always wish I had the ramp door so it was one less thing to bring and store inside.
1. Space. Need to park with enough space to not only drop it down, but then leave it down all day or use only the side/nose door. In crowded paddocks this can become a PITA.
2. Shins. Cutting the corner from the side around to the back, you’ll soon remember your shins. You may eventually learn. Friends/visitors may not.
3. Weight. If it’s raining the wood can absorb a lot of moisture and door gets very heavy.

There are probably others - these are the ones I recall hearing about from “the guys with the white plates” back when I was deciding which way to go for my race bike trailer.
 

squidworth

Well-known member
All points I had never thought of. :) :thumbup

1. Space. Need to park with enough space to not only drop it down, but then leave it down all day or use only the side/nose door. In crowded paddocks this can become a PITA.
2. Shins. Cutting the corner from the side around to the back, you’ll soon remember your shins. You may eventually learn. Friends/visitors may not.
3. Weight. If it’s raining the wood can absorb a lot of moisture and door gets very heavy.

There are probably others - these are the ones I recall hearing about from “the guys with the white plates” back when I was deciding which way to go for my race bike trailer.
 

CDONA

Home of Vortex tuning
One weak spot, the full length hinge across the door.

Living with my first rig 5th wheel toy hauler, with ramp door, I always propped up the door on the ground to support both sides of the hinge. Not one corner flying during use, to get twisted, loose,or bent.
My 6 X 12 has barn doors
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
haven't gone over it with a fine tooth comb yet but everything seems to be there

i will say this is my first trailer with torsion axles and i donno if i'll ever go back to a leaf spring setup as long as i don't have any issues. Thing rides like a cadillac unloaded instead of bouncing all around, really nice.

The vacant space up front i'll be putting a tool box in with a countertop since that seemed more practical than the built in cabinets and the cost was similar. Have to move that battery and charging setup out of the way though, which is kinda annoying because it actually wasn't an option I ordered, they accidentally put it in (no cost to be). Um, what you can't see, manual awning on the other side, one outlet on the exterior by the door, 3 interior outlets. 7.5' interior height, feels like you can do jumping jacks in the damn thing. Probably would go down to 7' if i were to do it again, but all good. Think i can fit 3 full size bikes in very comfortably, 4 with a little bit of effort.

Anyways, happy so far, hopefully it holds up and i don't find anything drastically wrong with it.
 
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