Do You Road Bike?

[augustiron]

If anyone is looking, i have a like new M/L (56ish) Lynskey R255 Titanium road bike with Ultegra driveline and some FSA other parts that I haven't ridden in years. Probably less that 100 miles on it.
Collecting dust, figure i should sell as i only have time to ride dirt up here.
I paid $3670 at roaring mouse cycles in SF in Sept 2014.

Seriously, like new less that 100 miles (had kids, new job, moved, all the excuses...)

I'll get pix and post in the classifieds soon. PM me if interested. In Truckee.

I have the receipt on the original purchase also.

 

[UDRider]

By the way Hooli I have a fluid trainer you can have if you want one.

 

[Hooli]

By the way Hooli I have a fluid trainer you can have if you want one.

Thanks!

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

quick question,
if it's a nice day, feeling like I need to go out, should I bicycle today or it's going to be bad for my muscles/legs????


... that said, because I bicycled yesterday (evening).. and my legs and nees are hurting still they often do, for 1 to 3 days after. :dunno

 

[UDRider]

Go ride your bike. Why would it be bad?

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

Go ride your bike. Why would it be bad?

Because the side of my right leg hurts today... something on the side of the knee, connecting two parts of the leg?

.. but correct, a big part of why I ride "my bike" is because it's an enjoyful type of just riding around.

My pedals are not clipless, but are pretty rough with notches (MTB pedals) And hook up to the bumpy shoe quite well, maybe bringing to a fixed foot position. They're NEARLY clipless only much easier to get out of

 

[stangmx13]

Because the side of my right leg hurts today... something on the side of the knee, connecting two parts of the leg?

.. but correct, a big part of why I ride "my bike" is because it's an enjoyful type of just riding around.

My pedals are not clipless, but are pretty rough with notches (MTB pedals) And hook up to the bumpy shoe quite well, maybe bringing to a fixed foot position. They're NEARLY clipless only much easier to get out of

outside, inside, front, or back of knee?

some common causes of knee pain:
- saddle too low
- low cadence / high torque pedaling style
- tight IT bands (often caused by everything else on this list)
- saddle too wide (more common if only 1 knee hurts)
- saddle way too high (comes with hip pain)
- foot angled poorly (unlikely when not clipped in)

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

outside, inside, front, or back of knee?

some common causes of knee pain:
- saddle too low
- low cadence / high torque pedaling style
- tight IT bands (often caused by everything else on this list)
- saddle too wide (more common if only 1 knee hurts)
- saddle way too high (comes with hip pain)
- foot angled poorly (unlikely when not clipped in)

"outside" of the knee. Right leg outside.
So it's something related to knee-tracking, or foot angled incorrectly.. i.e. these two taken together... or it could be some flat-foot angle issue. :dunno

I lifted the saddle a bit.. seems OK for now.

---
Today I started thinking that, pain at the side of the knee is not a good thing even after only a short ride, I should seriously think about fixing the position and/or not .. ride instead.


Will probably try to change the pedals to completely flat without pins and try to make the bike fit.

 

[UDRider]

Yeah could be related to knee tracking. Maybe you have a tendency to rotate the foot out/in and then the repetitive motion of pedaling aggravates something.

Whenever I change even a saddle I get bike fitted, and have clipless pedals with 0 float. Although I do ride bunch of miles, and had bad knee issues in my early 20s. So for me it's worth it.

 

[Smash Allen]

I just bought a new trek Marin 5 and the front sprocket is digging into the frame, is this normal?

 

[UDRider]

What do you mean digging in to a frame?
In general nothing should be scratching a frame.

 

[Smash Allen]

I’ll get a picture of it tonight, it looks like the big sprocket has chipped teeth and kicked the chain off, but the chain hasn’t ever fell off...

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

I’ll get a picture of it tonight, it looks like the big sprocket has chipped teeth and kicked the chain off, but the chain hasn’t ever fell off...

ooh maybe what happened is once during a test drive someone knocked the chain off and scratched the frame. Maybe that's what you're describing.

Whenever I change even a saddle I get bike fitted, and have clipless pedals with 0 float. .

sadly I've already spent 200$$$ on SPD pedals (I think even two sets--one of them is city-flats/SPD) and 1 pair of shoes, and within ght 1-2 week when I tried to use them, I think my knees started hurting. they have 3 degrees? 6?

nowadays I've been thinking if I abandon this, I should get "round" clips from crank-brothers because I hear they have much bigger float. Probably that's a "Simple solution"

 

[Smash Allen]

I’ll get a picture of it tonight, it looks like the big sprocket has chipped teeth and kicked the chain off, but the chain hasn’t ever fell off...

 

[UDRider]

sadly I've already spent 200$$$ on SPD pedals (I think even two sets--one of them is city-flats/SPD) and 1 pair of shoes, and within ght 1-2 week when I tried to use them, I think my knees started hurting. they have 3 degrees? 6?

nowadays I've been thinking if I abandon this, I should get "round" clips from crank-brothers because I hear they have much bigger float. Probably that's a "Simple solution"

3 or 6 degrees should be plenty although if they are setup way off, that won't help.
A lot of things can affect the knees. Your saddle position, saddle relative to BB, how your foot is turned out/turned in, how you pedal. I have seen some cringe worthy pedaling techniques where someone would rotate their knee way out on the upward motion.

The fact you are getting knee pain even after short rides indicates something really wrong, but I am not a doctor. If you can get an appointment with physio that might be helpful. There was one good one at Kaiser in Santa Clara. She used to be Pro cyclist. First time I ended up in her care when I crashed on 84 and fractured my pelvis. She was like "Why didn't you just ride home?" :laughing

 

[stangmx13]

ooh maybe what happened is once during a test drive someone knocked the chain off and scratched the frame. Maybe that's what you're describing.



sadly I've already spent 200$$$ on SPD pedals (I think even two sets--one of them is city-flats/SPD) and 1 pair of shoes, and within ght 1-2 week when I tried to use them, I think my knees started hurting. they have 3 degrees? 6?

nowadays I've been thinking if I abandon this, I should get "round" clips from crank-brothers because I hear they have much bigger float. Probably that's a "Simple solution"

Doing a bike fit is a lot like fixing an issue on a moto or car. You can do it the wrong way and waste a lot of time & money by guessing that something is wrong and buying new parts. Or you can do it the right way by measuring and diagnosing, looking for out of range parameters, and fixing the real issue. Please don’t do it the wrong way.

Itll take way too long for you to learn all the stuff that goes into a good fit. And there’s no easy way for anyone to really help over the internet. So you should go pay for a bike fit at a reputable bike shop. They’ll have a fancy machine to measure you on the bike, which makes finding issues much simpler.

There’s nothing wrong w your pedals and their float. If you bought SPD Road pedals, make sure the cleat is mounted straight in line with the shoe and mostly centered. If you bought SPD Mtb, you don’t rly have much adjustment.

 

[Smash Allen]

The derailleur doesn’t have a clutch on my bike which is why the chain was able to walk up and scratch the frame. The shop adjusted the drivetrain and it is smoother now, I should be good

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

3 or 6 degrees should be plenty although if they are setup way off, that won't help.
A lot of things can affect the knees. Your saddle position, saddle relative to BB, how your foot is turned out/turned in, how you pedal. I have seen some cringe worthy pedaling techniques where someone would rotate their knee way out on the upward motion.

Doing a bike fit ..
Itll take way too long for you to learn all the stuff that goes into a good fit. And there’s no easy way for anyone to really help over the internet. So you should go pay for a bike fit at a reputable bike shop. They’ll have a fancy machine to measure you on the bike, which makes finding issues much simpler.
...

yeah OK I guess, so I should "Get a bike fit". Hope I find the right shop, the right time (no corona) and it's open (no ..) Never had a bike fit. :dunno
Just the bike shop "let's lift the saddle, stand next to the bike, looks okay"

Nobody offered a bike fit BTW, maybe I never look the type or I have been to all the non-pro shops.

..
so the other day I switched to thinner shoes that have no "nibs" so, they hook less to the stubby MTB pedal.. AND also tried to position my right foot more C-ClockWise on the pedal as it seemed it makes my knee hurt less.. and indeed, after the ride I think it hurt less..

 

[AbsolutEnduser]

In the meantime, I watched just one (very old) sizing video, and adjusted the seatpost 1-2mm UP and .. the seat..at least 5mm BACK. :laughing

There was improvement :thumbup I feel more comfortable, as if my leg stroke is longer and I think one of the big pains to the side of the knee went away.

--
Should I change my chain? It's probably loose after >1000 miles. I guess I can use this guide with a ruler.

Should I buy pins/lock when I buy the chain?

--
REI has a sale on a PINK (or RED) insulated Camelback water bottle right now if you care for that.

 

[UDRider]

I have a tool that does it, but probably overkill.
All the chains I bought came with a pin to insert to connect the chain. Although lately Shimano chains have come with actual "non reusable" link.

That being said. Chain will be longer then what's on your bike, so you will need a chain breaking tool to shorten it to correct length.

Modern chains, assuming properly lubbed, can go much more then 1k miles.