Do You Road Bike?

[ucmgrad]

I personally use a variety of bike racks for my vehicles:
~For my 88 Toyota Pick - performance bike truck bar with both quick-release and a solid axel mount that uses Yakima lock cores
~Yakima q-Tower system for my rsx
~2" Kuat NV 2.0 (i think is the model) with the built in bike workstation/stand whenever I'm carpooling with anyone.

 

[firstbuell]

Has anyone here used Seasucker racks? I've heard some good things about them and I like the idea of not having to install bars on my car for it.

Also, my bike developed a problem. I have SRAM Force double tap shifters, and I am simply unable to switch to the large sprocket any more. It seems like the front derailler (also SRAM Force) just doesn't move far enough to switch my chain to the large sprocket.

In this case, is there an outer limit adjustment somewhere? What the hell do I adjust?

yo, RE: SeaSucker rack - Tuono Joice & I got all giddy the 1st time we saw 1 & ordered a 2-bike Mini version - we love it, no issues (check vacuum buttons often) on the Audi A7’s backglass or roof

you can eyeball em @ Mike’s Bikes Palo Alto, over by bathrooms

for my sign off, I’d like to use the push bike version of, “Braapp” - wut izzit?

 

[rcb78]

In this case, is there an outer limit adjustment somewhere? What the hell do I adjust?

Unless you've already messed with your limit screws, don't. They do exactly what their name implies, they limit movement. They are to be set based on cage position relative to the chain in various gearing combinations and then left alone. They do not have anything to do with that actual cage movement, that is all cable tension.
You'll want to first make sure that the derailleur moves freely by hand. I've come across many that were seized from corrosion from either sweat or drink mix. If it moves freely then you have to go into trouble shooting mode. Cable/housing has an average 2k mile life before problems present. Basic shifter operation, are all the clicks present and does the cable move appropriately for the shifter action.
If all that checks out, then start checking for wear and tear on the derailleur itself and the large chainring shift features and replace what's needed.
If all else fails, visit a shop.

 

[mrzuzzo]

yo, RE: SeaSucker rack - Tuono Joice & I got all giddy the 1st time we saw 1 & ordered a 2-bike Mini version - we love it, no issues (check vacuum buttons often) on the Audi A7’s backglass or roof

you can eyeball em @ Mike’s Bikes Palo Alto, over by bathrooms

for my sign off, I’d like to use the push bike version of, “Braapp” - wut izzit?

Sweet. My office is across from that shop. Ill check it out.

 

[UDRider]

I went electronic and never looked back. lol
Also I had two rival shifters fail over the years for front RD.

I haven't had personal experience with SeaSuckers but have seen some people use them at races on fancy cars. That being said. I generally have a negative view of bikes on roof racks. You are just one mistake away, driving in to garage, low clearance parking lot, from destroying your bike.

 

[firstbuell]

Sweet. My office is across from that shop. Ill check it out.

EZ research - don't stop, tho, answer my Braap question, pls & thx

 

[firstbuell]

Unless you've already messed with your limit screws, don't. They do exactly what their name implies, they limit movement. They are to be set based on cage position relative to the chain in various gearing combinations and then left alone. They do not have anything to do with that actual cage movement, that is all cable tension.
You'll want to first make sure that the derailleur moves freely by hand. I've come across many that were seized from corrosion from either sweat or drink mix. If it moves freely then you have to go into trouble shooting mode. Cable/housing has an average 2k mile life before problems present. Basic shifter operation, are all the clicks present and does the cable move appropriately for the shifter action.
If all that checks out, then start checking for wear and tear on the derailleur itself and the large chainring shift features and replace what's needed.
If all else fails, visit a shop.

awesome & complete answer

 

[Dubbington]

Any of you riders use a Garmin bike computer?

I just bought a Garmin 530 and trying to find out what 3rd party app to connect it with. Of course it's gonna rain tomorrow so I can't test it. Many don't like the Garmin Connect App and will link to Strava or something else.

Strava is I think $60 for the year, damn!

 

[kelsodeez]

Just use the free version of strava

 

[rcb78]

If you are just after datalogging and activity tracking, Garmin has been doing this WAY longer than Strava and has it's own cloud based service at connect.garmin.com
Setup your Garmin account first and then if you want to do Strava too, you can link them in account settings for Strava. Then your 530 can auto upload through BT to your phone when you're away from home, or direct to through your WiFi when your ride ends back at home. Either way, it will upload automatically to Garmin Connect (Garmin Express is the PC desktop app/companion) and then seconds later it will push to Strava.
Garmin Connect is basically your personal trainer, Strava is you posting selfies of at the gym bragging that you have a personal trainer,,, and I'm totally guilty of using it. Joking aside, don't pay for Strava if you don't have a power meter, none of the extra features are worth it without one. Even then, so much of it is redundant with the free features in the Garmin software.

 

[ucmgrad]

Curios, because I feel N+1 is real. How many bikes does everyone have in their collection? I think it would be kind of neat to list your bikes and the reasons why you have them. Even better if you provide pictures of said awesome collection lol

 

[UDRider]

Any of you riders use a Garmin bike computer?

I just bought a Garmin 530 and trying to find out what 3rd party app to connect it with. Of course it's gonna rain tomorrow so I can't test it. Many don't like the Garmin Connect App and will link to Strava or something else.

Strava is I think $60 for the year, damn!

I guess it depends what you are trying to track and get out of it.

 

[afm199]

Curios, because I feel N+1 is real. How many bikes does everyone have in their collection? I think it would be kind of neat to list your bikes and the reasons why you have them. Even better if you provide pictures of said awesome collection lol

When I was serious about road biking, I always had three or four bikes and frames around. i'd build wheels and then frames into packages. Mostly Italian, Gios, Guerciotti, etc. Some of the old Specialized steel Allez ( god those were stiff.). An aluminum Cannondale.

Now I have an thirty year old mountain bike set up for the streets, and a alu Cannondale frame with Ultegra/Tiagra components. It's as light as any of my old Italian bikes, comfortable, easy to ride and more dependable.

 

[Dubbington]

Anyone replace a press in bottom bracket? Bb of my carbon giant is a creaking too much for me to ignore anymore. It’s a press fit BB86 shimano. Cheap to replace, $25 for new ultegra replacement. I don’t have bike tool and it doesn’t look too hard.

 

[kelsodeez]

Anyone replace a press in bottom bracket? Bb of my carbon giant is a creaking too much for me to ignore anymore. It’s a press fit BB86 shimano. Cheap to replace, $25 for new ultegra replacement. I don’t have bike tool and it doesn’t look too hard.

Edit: durr I have a bb30, so my info is kinda pointless.

I have a changed mine 3 times. It seems like a luck of the draw with a pressfit if it creaks or not.
I made my own press with a threaded rod, two park tools cups made for press fit brackets and some washers. I bought the tool to remove it because without it, it can get sketchy on a carbon frame.
https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-30-4

 

[rcb78]

Anyone replace a press in bottom bracket? Bb of my carbon giant is a creaking too much for me to ignore anymore. It’s a press fit BB86 shimano. Cheap to replace, $25 for new ultegra replacement. I don’t have bike tool and it doesn’t look too hard.

BB86 is super easy to do, I can almost press them in by hand most times. Drift the old one out with a screwdriver, clean up the shell, grease and push new cups in.
BB30 is a completely different beast. Surgical clean, primer, cylindrical retaining compound. I usually use Loctite 603 or 609 depending on the history of the bike. Assemble with a good press and mandrels to ensure it goes together as perfectly as possible, and then assemble the crank into place and let it sit for 24 hrs so the retaining compound has time to fully cure. If you still have creaks and you did this right, then they are not from the BB to frame interface, or you actually have a problem with your frame. None of my press fit frames have ever made a peep. My road frame is on it's original bearings from 2015 and my gravel frame is 3 years in at this point.

 

[Arsey]

Anyone replace a press in bottom bracket? Bb of my carbon giant is a creaking too much for me to ignore anymore. It’s a press fit BB86 shimano. Cheap to replace, $25 for new ultegra replacement. I don’t have bike tool and it doesn’t look too hard.

I had the creaking BB problem with my S-works Roubaix, and the thing that finally solved the problem was throwing the press in BB in the trash, and getting a Praxis: https://praxiscycles.com/bottom-brackets/
Did that 4 years ago, and probably got 20k miles without a peep

 

[Hooli]

I haven't taken my Felt out in over a year. :cry

Suggest to me a good indoor road bike trainer. I'm considering the fluid types over the magnetic resistant ones. Noise is not an issue because it'll be in the garage (which has a concrete floor). I like the ones that have a pivot that simulates that bike sway when you stand on the pedals and hammer it.

Are rollers still in these days? :afm199

 

[UDRider]

I haven't taken my Felt out in over a year. :cry

Suggest to me a good indoor road bike trainer. I'm considering the fluid types over the magnetic resistant ones. Noise is not an issue because it'll be in the garage (which has a concrete floor). I like the ones that have a pivot that simulates that bike sway when you stand on the pedals and hammer it.

Are rollers still in these days? :afm199

Only for kool kids on track bikes. :laughing
Brah, embrace smart trainer! Get a TV for the man cave, and small pc or apple tv and join zwift. Makes indoor training way more tolerable.

As for BB. I had press in BB replaced on my bike with a one that just screws in. It started creaking last year. Took it out, cleaned it, screwed it back in done. It's more expensive, but so well worth it. I think it was one from https://wheelsmfg.com/.
Although I just gave bike shop money and told them to fix it. lol. I was heading for Cascade Classics the next day, and didn't realize BB was shot. :facepalm

 

[Dubbington]

BB86 is super easy to do, I can almost press them in by hand most times. Drift the old one out with a screwdriver, clean up the shell, grease and push new cups in.
BB30 is a completely different beast. Surgical clean, primer, cylindrical retaining compound. I usually use Loctite 603 or 609 depending on the history of the bike. Assemble with a good press and mandrels to ensure it goes together as perfectly as possible, and then assemble the crank into place and let it sit for 24 hrs so the retaining compound has time to fully cure. If you still have creaks and you did this right, then they are not from the BB to frame interface, or you actually have a problem with your frame. None of my press fit frames have ever made a peep. My road frame is on it's original bearings from 2015 and my gravel frame is 3 years in at this point.

I had the creaking BB problem with my S-works Roubaix, and the thing that finally solved the problem was throwing the press in BB in the trash, and getting a Praxis: https://praxiscycles.com/bottom-brackets/
Did that 4 years ago, and probably got 20k miles without a peep

Went with a Token Ninja threaded bottom bracket. It was surprisingly easy to get the press in out. Just a couple tape with a piece of pvc pipe on the inside of the bottom bracket housing. The Token Kit comes with the correct toothed tool with a 32mm socket end. Cleaned the inside and put the new one in. Only thing tripping me is not having a torque wrench that can do around 250 nm (around 20ft lbs). I'd like to get a torque wrench for bike repair. Any recs of decent torque wrench that wont break the bank? I plan to replace the BB on my commuter bike too. Be about a $40. That one will need about 30ft lbs of torque. Had to buy a crank puller and 20 tooth splined tool.

Road shoes....my current ones are causing my left toes to go numbs around the 15 mile mark. Very frustrating. They feel much looser than my previous shoes that only caused numbness around 40 miles. I'm going to try moving the cleat and not having them so tight. It's a double BOA system.

I was looking at these Bont shoes, they have high reviews, are wide and heat moldable.

https://www.wiggle.com/bont-riot-road-cycling-shoe-boa/