Build Thread: Ducati 2V SBK

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Busy with this but failing on the updates....

Front end upgrade, new brake lines, forks, radial master cylinder. The 1198S waiting impatiently in the background....
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Subframe updates: added tank mount tab and seat / fairing mount points. I will be using this metal frame to make a plug for a mold for a composite subframe... Hope to start that this week.
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Exhaust updates: I wanted it higher and more centered so it looks better in the revised fairing. Since the subframe will be fine-tuned anyway, I'll add some clearance for the muffler.
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Final intake updates - made this for the pod filters, getting welded up this week.
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And putting that composites table to use... Making molds from the sheetmetal side panels. This is the gel coat.
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Here are the side panels and oil cooler mount molds doing a hot post-cure so the molds can withstand heat in future use. I built this oven out of insulation panel, a heat lamp and fan, and a thermostat-controlled power strip thing - you can get them on Amazon for pretty cheap. For curing pre-preg I'll have to add an extra lamp since it takes about 20 minutes to get to ~100C right now.
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I don't have the "before" picture, but this is a big plastic piece that goes around the tank and all the way up the OEM subframe. I trimmed it and sanded the fake carbon-like texture off of it and am still working to get it to a smooth finish. This design works perfectly with the custom subframe and the tail fairing. The white thing is the beginning of flashing for the mold I will cast from it, using corrugated plastic ("plastic cardboard") since it needs to flex more than the polypropylene sheet used for the other mold
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The molds for the side panels came out well but I think can be improved, so will try a second set this weekend. The oil cooler mounts will likely be used just for one set of parts, that should have been a 2-part mold ideally.
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Alright - some updates, close to the finish line now. All this composites stuff has been a steep learning curve, with some (fun?) mistakes along the way.

One of which was my oil cooler mold. The first one was a one-piece mold, which was stupid given the lip of the mold created a negative draft (basically would make it impossible to remove a finished part). The first part I made was shit.

So I re-did the molds as 2-piece molds, which took almost a whole week of gel coat, cure, resin + glass initial layer, cure, more resign and shit load of glass, cure. And then another hot post-cure. Each cure is essentially overnight, so yea - lots of patience. Then add hardware to hold molds together, trim the molds, polish them. And then start laying up and pulling parts.

Here's my first part ready to be pulled from the new 2-piece mold. This is a pre-preg system that I vacuum bagged and cured in the DIY oven I built:
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Here it was in the oven:
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And here are both parts trimmed and sanded test mounted on the oil cooler. Will do a final clear coat / sand / clear coat / polish after holes are drilled to bring the gloss back:
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Here's the side panel mold after some polishing and lay up pics:
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And the bike in current state - lots of little things to get it ready to roll: wired up the bazzaz FI tuner, got it running with the oil cooler and bazzaz installed, intake manifolds and filters installed, chain and sprockets, new cush drive, brakes.
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This week will start working on the tail and front end body panels. I have nicely finished OEM-derived panels, but want to try a more simplistic design (monocoque front and rear fairings - with the fairing and subframe / fairing stay being a single carbon fiber piece).
 
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viva_brasil

Well-known member
Finally moved and settled in, finishing the bike up - making a front fairing stay for this 1098 half fairing and reinforcing the rear subframe.

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Foam core fairing stay, this is the core of the final carbon fiber part. Used tooling foam and black foamcore - the fairing mounting plate is separate from the main piece, and added slots to adjust the exact height and angle of the fairing before gluing in place.

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brianslions

Well-known member
sweet build! found this thread while trying to figure out how to replace the key/ignition with a toggle switch on my 749R racebike. Have you looked into this for your project, or do you have any thoughts?
Brian
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Thanks Brian. The immobilizer setup on the OEM ECU (assuming you have the OEM ECU) will make it tricky.

If you're open to it, I would upgrade to a stand-alone ECU (I'm using a microtec setup on a 1198S motor swapped 749), which will give you more tuning options plus the ability to get rid of the immobilizer and use a toggle switch setup. The ECU won't look for the immobilizer / key chip handshake to allow the bike to start - like the OEM ECU does.

I know Nemesis is another stand-alone ECU, but I'm not as familiar with it.

If your goal was to get to a toggle switch no matter what, I guess you could relocate the ignition switch / immobilizer + key to a hidden location, and leave the key in on the "on" position. Then add a battery disconnect switch as your power toggle switch.

sweet build! found this thread while trying to figure out how to replace the key/ignition with a toggle switch on my 749R racebike. Have you looked into this for your project, or do you have any thoughts?
Brian
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Posting some finished pics here, finally.

Track test last weekend, front end is perfect - needs a softer rear spring. Overall was very very impressed with how it handled: the trellis frame stability that I'm used to with more agility / flickability / feedback than I'm used to on the superbikes. Weighed in at ~340lbs wet.

Bad news: motor shat the bed, so will be coming out for a rebuild. I think it was a combination of bad motor to begin with and running too lean (untuned). To be continued....

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Junkie

gone for now
Damn. What specifically went bad?

I'd start looking awfully hard for an 1100 Evo engine. My recollection is that they're significantly lighter.
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Damn. What specifically went bad?

I'd start looking awfully hard for an 1100 Evo engine. My recollection is that they're significantly lighter.

I'm not sure yet... I did hear what was likely bearing noise coming from the motor under load when I took it out on track. It was running decently well and pulling strong despite that, and I was having so much fun with it that I just kept riding. About 7 laps in, it started to lose power - right after Turn 9. I pitted and noticed much more engine noise and the low oil pressure light at idle.

The Evo motor is 13 pounds lighter. But significantly more expensive... plus all the other little things that currently support a DS motor instead.

I will most likely just rebuild this one - I should be able to do a head port + polish, larger valves, cams, pistons (plus new bearings, seals, gaskets) for less than a new motor. Would be great to get closer to 110rwhp.

EDIT: may leave the heads alone since that's $$$ for the extra 10hp. Thinking high compression pistons, cams, and balance rotating assembly (with new, correctly sized bearings). That will be about the same cost as a new motor. 100rwhp build (compared to 77 bone stock).
 
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viva_brasil

Well-known member
picked up a 800SS donor - decided to downsize so I can run the bike somewhat competitively with AFM - since the lightweight twins classes cap 2-valve air cooled engines at 800cc. Hoping to do the swap in the next few weeks.

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