20w50

blaze

toe dragger
i'm currently using 10w40 oil. what are the benefits of using 20w50 oil in the summer?? no oil wars... just curious as to why alot of riders use 20w50
 

gmann

Well-known member
i go with 15w-50. decided to go with the 15w-50 cause sometimes it's a bit chilly in the morning and late night, so the oil will flow a little bit better than a 20w-50 in a cold start and warmup.

stingray's right about the oil breakdown part. if you're gonna go to trackdays, you should prolly go with a 15w50 or 20w50. just my $0.02.
 

MackeyStingray

Well-known member
also FYI, some full synths are 10w50 but you'll pay an arm and a leg for it. my bro has the motorex 10w50 and it was almost $50 just for a quart of it. :eek
 

luisimo

Well-known member
Which oil is better ?

Use either semi-synthetic or fully synthetic after the brake in period (first 1000 miles) It is a cheap insurance.
Depending of the time of year and your location make sure that you understand what oil you should use, the difference between a 20w-50 and 10w-40 is that a 20w-50 has a weight of 20 at 0° F and a provides the same protection of a 50 at 212° F ... weight could be understood as viscosity... while a 10w-40 has a weight of 10 at 0° F the same protection of 40 at 212° F. So, what is the weather like when you ride? How hot does your bike get when you ride? Choose accordingly.
Keep in mind that the oil does NOT gain viscosity as it gets hotter, it is just the resistance to thermal breakdown that change. Meaning that your 20w-50 will protect your engine as well as a 50 at 212° F but it has the advantage of being only a 20 viscosity which is good for average temperature morning in southern california (above 50° F).
Now here is where is gets interesting... Which one protects better a 5w-50 or a 20w-50? I like to think that most of the wear of the engine occurs when you first start the engine up, so the 5w-50 will protect better at start ups because of the lighter weight BOTH will protect the same at 212° F.
Fuel efficiency is also affected by the oil weight the lighter it is the less work is need to move it around but I am not to convince of the 0w-50 as the seals do need some weight to work properly, new bikes can go as low as 5w-X older bike should not go below 10w-X. Lots of information all over the internet you need an afternoon to go over all of it but I wanted to post my two cents worth of advice I hope it helps.

Luisimo.
 

Hooli

Big Ugly
2-w-50 is a little thick for this area. I'd suggest 10w-40. I'd only go with theh other stuff if I lived, say, in Tuscon, AZ. :D
 

luisimo

Well-known member
It is just preference

That will be true in cars or in some motorcycles but performance bikes heat up excessively.
When I ride my motorcycle through the city it heats up over 212° F (somewhere in the low 230° F) So once again is just insurance.
 

tedski

Well-known member
Now... what about mixing two different viscosity oils? Is that bad? Say one quart 10w-40 to 3 quarts 20w-50. Theoretically... wouldn't that give you a nice midrange without giving up an arm and a leg?



TedSki
tedski@sprintpcs.com.com

'01 Suzuki SV650S - Blue
V-twin Love
"Sarcasm is just another service I offer"
 

luisimo

Well-known member
TedSki said:
Now... what about mixing two different viscosity oils? Is that bad? Say one quart 10w-40 to 3 quarts 20w-50. Theoretically... wouldn't that give you a nice midrange without giving up an arm and a leg?

Is the quality of the oil that is different, so it will not work... It does not cost an arm and a leg. regular oil is 25 bucks, synthetic oil is 50 bucks... Synthetic oil will protect better and longer, for sure at least twice as long that regular oil therefore giving you the same value.
 

MackeyStingray

Well-known member
just FYI, full synth. can have a wider heat range. you can get 5w-40 or 10w-50 synth. which i haven't seen for traditional dino oil (5w30, 10w30, 10w40, 20w50, 15w-50 are the 1's i've seen at least for car oil).
 
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