701 sm

ttsang91

Well-known member
Anyone have trouble with the TC saying it's off but its on?
I turn mine off and the light stays on indicating it's off, I go to try to clutch it up and the power gets cut.. I've tried turning it off from a stop and from rolling.
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
so def coming out the overflow tube by the horn
already checked the fan, that works fine. Coolant only comes out under load. Overflow level stays full even though the radiator is emptying. Does not go back into radiator when cool. Guess i'll check the cap and hoses first.

really really hope it's not the same issue cg_ops had
 

ttsang91

Well-known member
so def coming out the overflow tube by the horn
already checked the fan, that works fine. Coolant only comes out under load. Overflow level stays full even though the radiator is emptying. Does not go back into radiator when cool. Guess i'll check the cap and hoses first.

really really hope it's not the same issue cg_ops had


Did you dig more into this?
I noticed I'll have some coolant coming out of the same hose but it's not consistent. Usually what causes it is a long ride, I'll stop for an hour or so then jump back on, ride some more and when I get off that's when I'll notice it.
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
Did you dig more into this?
I noticed I'll have some coolant coming out of the same hose but it's not consistent. Usually what causes it is a long ride, I'll stop for an hour or so then jump back on, ride some more and when I get off that's when I'll notice it.

you can start reading here at the bottom of the page if you care to see the responses i've gotten so far

https://advrider.com/f/threads/husqvarna-701-super-moto-and-enduro.1086621/page-1791

tl:dr , haven't had a chance to really dig into it yet, mostly because the husky threaded radiator cap seems to be some one off b/s that i'm having trouble finding an adapter for to test

ordered a new cap in the mean time and haven't received it yet
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
YoafuVA.jpg


obligatory track day photo pre mechanical issues :laughing :nchantr :(
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
update on the cooling situation

received my adapter and it's really nice. Heavy and finished well, not some flimsy POS, which is good because after tax and shipping this dang piece cost me $67 or something like that. The only snap on product I own haha, i see how people go broke being collectors. Anyways, for those that are in the market I found that matco also makes the exact same adapter with almost an identical part number.
"Snap on" part number is TAB10069 and "Matco" is MPT10069P . Bought it directly on "snap on's" page, probably a bit cheaper if you have a dealer near you but I didn't feel like waiting. Not sure what the list price is for the "matco" unit, i'd hope cheaper, but I wasn't able to find out price or purchase online with their website and I didn't feel like picking up the phone again.

NT3lIWK.jpg



The issue i ran into was with the actual pressure testing kit i bought through amazon (astro pneumatic 78585). The cap (piece that goes on top of the adapter i just bragged about) is really flimsy with the thinnest gasket imaginable and does a terrible job sealing. Slight rock side to side and it breaks the seal. If i make sure the caps completely flat it holds pretty good but still leaks down. Start at 1.4 and after two hours it's 1.1. I'm 99% sure it's the cheap cap and not the actual coolant system. Tried spraying soapy water on top of the cap with it under pressure but didn't see anything jump out at me.

HuGLZsd.jpg


So, i just purchased another radiator pressure tester ("otc" 6977, looks like "Matco" CSPTK but half the cost) that pressure tests through the hose instead of through the cap. Obviously this alleviates the need for purchasing an expensive adapter like I did and allows you to test the cap as well (which i'm still not able to do with the adapter and neither snap, matco, or anyone else I can find makes one). If you already have a nice pressure adapter in your tool set though the adapter i listed above will def do the job.

Also purchased another cap, which looks a tad different than the OEM one. Not sure if it's an updated part number or what but the bronze one is the one that came on the bike and the silver one is the new one.

7jss3wW.jpg


Will update further if you guys want once i get the new tester. Thanks for letting me rant, hope it helps someone else in the future.
 

cg_ops

1-Armed Bandit
So glad I don't have to deal with my 701 after revisiting this thread :laughing

The 890 has been such an awesome step up in hooliganess, nimbleness, and enjoyable...ness.

I do miss the 701's propensity to raise its front end like a preying mantis every time something spooks it. The 890 may be a lot more powerful but the geometry of a sumo is MUCH more conducive to whoolies :ride
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
So glad I don't have to deal with my 701 after revisiting this thread :laughing

The 890 has been such an awesome step up in hooliganess, nimbleness, and enjoyable...ness.

I do miss the 701's propensity to raise its front end like a preying mantis every time something spooks it. The 890 may be a lot more powerful but the geometry of a sumo is MUCH more conducive to whoolies :ride

haha glad you like the new bike

i've flogged this thing for 10k miles so i'm really not too upset if it's a head gasket. Also bang it off the limiter more than i should lol . Finally stiched up the oil leak on the tx300i so I still have something to ride :)


So i got my new pressure tester and was able to complete a pressure test with the snapon adapter and without the faulty test cap and it holds pressure fine. Maybe dropped .025 bar in 30 mins time, i think that's probably acceptable?
Unfortunately i still don't know a good way to test the OEM cap. You can't go through the cap obviously because it would just vent back into the pump, so one would have to either splice the radiator hose or go through the sensor port on the radiator. Both of which would take a little bit of fab that i'm not interested in. So i'm going to throw the new cap i purchased on the bike and ride it around and see what happens. If it's fixed, great. If not i'll pull the head.

Keep you guys posted
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
So it's been about a month since I pulled the motor, holidays, work, family and other hobbies/bikes has consumed my free time. Got around to pulling the head today so about half way done. The really odd thing is I did a leak down test before pulling the head and I had 10% leak. After staring at the gauge for what must have been 30 seconds I decided i wanted a picture so i started searching for my phone and somehow in that time frame the thing sealed up and I was at 2% leak. Pretty positive the engine didn't rotate any and all the valves were closed. I took the air off and pulled the cam before retesting to be absolutely sure, but I was unable to recreate what had happened and it read 2% steady the entire time. Once again, positive the valves were closed. There may be some weird thing going on with these motors and head gaskets, which would explain the pushing water under load but not at idle thing. Very odd, but saw it with my own eyes. Anyways, here's a few pictures, maybe someone that knows what they're looking at better than me can shed some light if they see anything odd. Nothing jumped out at me really, piston seems a bit dark but the lighting isn't the best in my garage? 10k miles so i donno how it's supposed to look. Unfortunately I don't have a machinists straight edge to see how straight the block/head decks are. Rule of thumb as taught to me has always been .001" per cylinder on a bank, but it only being 1 cylinder I don't even think i have a .001 feeler guage. Gonna clean up the decks tomorrow and probably slap it back together and see what happens. Fingers crossed.

Top of piston/block deck
WfCAoNS.jpg

T9uxh8t.jpg


Head side of gasket
2XSbyev.jpg


Block side of gasket
Yv3WNu4.jpg


Bottom of cylinder head
asIIwLl.jpg


Leak down
kNi2SKU.jpg
 
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JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
Ordered a straight edge, gonna make sure the head and block decks aren't warped before reassembly. What's a few more days at this point?
 

JesasaurusRex

Deleted User
So nice surprise, my straight edge arrived today and I ordered it yesterday. Woowoo

So the head deck is straight as an arrow, checked it multiple places, still haven't on the block but unless I report back different it's also straight.
Putting the head on my bench with a little better light I did notice the top right exhaust valve in the photo is a bit discolored towards the outside of the combustion chamber. I have no known oil consumption issues, is it possible by the looks of it that this is the side my coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber? Someone with more knowledge than me please :) Also looks like the side with the most carbon buildup. Picture with the straight edge is after I cleaned it up, first picture is before any cleaning.

QPsWQvh.jpg

fxcunAD.jpg
 
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