1977 Yamaha RD400D

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
If you’re looking for simple and relatively cheap I’d suggest the Vintage Smoke Dyna-S for the RD. It’s basically a points replacement. I’ve had great success with mine. However, if you’re looking to upgrade your voltage output to run brighter lights etc, then the Vape (formerly PowerDynamo) or HPI is the way to go. Replaces the entire rotor with a much smaller and lighter one. Easier on the crank end and less rotating mass equals quicker revs. A win-win.

Those are excellent suggestions indeed. I had been looking at both of those already. I knew that after the initial build, I would somehow want to replace the points eventually. Then I came across a CL ad where the seller had a stockpile of random parts pulled from his bike, before he did his rebuild. He offered this Newtronics ignition for $50. I figured I could give it a whirl, but I have heard mixed reviews on the unit. I may just go straight from points to the Dyna-S and sell the Piranha. We'll see... I still have to send my exhaust off to Oregon for restoration and that's going to cost $300+. How else can I spend more money?? :kicknuts
 

Seizer

Well-known member
Those are excellent suggestions indeed. I had been looking at both of those already. I knew that after the initial build, I would somehow want to replace the points eventually. Then I came across a CL ad where the seller had a stockpile of random parts pulled from his bike, before he did his rebuild. He offered this Newtronics ignition for $50. I figured I could give it a whirl, but I have heard mixed reviews on the unit. I may just go straight from points to the Dyna-S and sell the Piranha. We'll see... I still have to send my exhaust off to Oregon for restoration and that's going to cost $300+. How else can I spend more money?? :kicknuts

I would have the squish adjusted for sure. Today’s pump gasses are full of ethanol and other solvents (cleaners ie. Techron etc) and react much differently than the leaded fuel that the RD was designed to run on. Another issue to address is timing. Most people nowadays have adjusted their timing to no more that 2.0 mm btdc. That would be with stock carb and pipes. A hotrod RD is typically running around 1.8-1.9 btdc. The stock timing marks are at 2.3 iirc. Feel free to PM for my number and we can talk/text if you want.
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
I would have the squish adjusted for sure. Today’s pump gasses are full of ethanol and other solvents (cleaners ie. Techron etc) and react much differently than the leaded fuel that the RD was designed to run on. Another issue to address is timing. Most people nowadays have adjusted their timing to no more that 2.0 mm btdc. That would be with stock carb and pipes. A hotrod RD is typically running around 1.8-1.9 btdc. The stock timing marks are at 2.3 iirc. Feel free to PM for my number and we can talk/text if you want.

Thanks for the support. I just ordered some cheapo dial indicator gauge off Amazon last night. I do have a timing light, but truthfully, I'm not even sure what to look for, so I figured going static would be safest in my case. I was going to set at 1.8 BTDC and see where that gets me, then adjust from there. This gauge is in inches, but I was able to download a conversion chart, so I think I should be cool.
 

Seizer

Well-known member
Thanks for the support. I just ordered some cheapo dial indicator gauge off Amazon last night. I do have a timing light, but truthfully, I'm not even sure what to look for, so I figured going static would be safest in my case. I was going to set at 1.8 BTDC and see where that gets me, then adjust from there. This gauge is in inches, but I was able to download a conversion chart, so I think I should be cool.

Sounds like you’re on the right track. A leak down tester is always a good idea too.

https://www.economycycle.com/shop/yamaha-rz-350/other/misc/2-stroke-leak-down-tester-kit/
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
The motor is freshly rebuilt with all new seals and gaskets. God! I would hope I don't need to do a leak down test!
 

VintageGuy

Well-known member
With RD350/400 periodic leak down test is a very good idea - maybe not when new but soon thereafter.
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
Work has been keeping busy lately, so progress is slow. My painted parts are nearly finished, as I anticipate retrieving them sometime this week. Lately I've been working with some small irritating problems- 1) the used bent kickstart lever I purchased from another forum member didn't quite clear my Tarozzi rearset peg and 2) after torquing down on the front axle, the wheel bearings are bound so tightly against the spacer that they are practically seized up!

The kickstart lever wasn't even close to clearing- it needed another 1.5" of clearance. I really didn't feel like taking a torch to the lever discoloring the chrome finish and all. After some email correspondences with Jim at Fast From the Past, he convinced me the newer improved model would clear the peg, so I took a chance and ordered it. Luckily it did! Problem solved!

With the front bearings, I thought that maybe once I swapped out the old bearings for new, that would take care of the clearance/tolerance issue and it would be a done deal. Nope. I got the new bearings in and same issue :facepalm

So I had to remove one of the bearings again and now I'm in search of a thin shim, so I can create a little more length on that axle spacer.

I also purchased a dial indicator timing device, so I could get my ignition timed. The indicator was in inches, while I needed to configure the timing in metric- it just took a little calculation and I was all set. The timing is set to 1.8mm BTDC, which should be appropriate for the air intake and chambers I'm running.



I'm hoping to get the electrical cleaned up and wired by the end of next week. Fingers crossed!
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
It's Alive!!!!!

Last week I got the painted parts back. They look pretty awesome! The painter did a very nice job. I spent a couple of days trying to hack together a working electrical harness out of three that I have accumulated over the years. It wasn't easy, since I'm really not all that great at reading schematics, plus some of the wire colors weren't always what the schematic said they would be.

I hooked it up as best I could. I knew I had to delete the resistor ballast, since I was installing some old (never been used) Moto Carrera coils. In the end, there were a few wires that I didn't know where they belonged- I figured I'd just get to that later.

I bought a dial indicator to help me get the bike timed. For my configuration, my engine builder suggested that I try 1.8mm BTDC. I got the plugs and points gapped. New everything. I new Yamaha OEM where I could. All the engine internals, with the exception of the con rods and bearings were NOS stuff. The condenser I bought wasn't old stock- I bought an aftermarket fresh one.

After the battery was hooked up, I turned the ignition and I got lights! What a total relief! And nothing melted or went snap/crackle/pop. The neutral and oil idiot lights came on, the headlamp worked hi/low, and the blinkers worked (but they didn't blink, because I installed LED's). The one thing that didn't work was the brake light. I tested it on the blinker and it fired, so it's something else. I'll get to that later.





I filled the bike up with fluids and did pre-mix gas for the startup, using 32:1 ratio of the Yamalube 2S. I tried to start the bike last night, but it was a no go. I was racking my brain to figure out what it could be. I'm certain that the timing was dead on. The motor is definitely getting gas. So this morning, I tested for spark. Yup. That was firing.

I called up a couple of local shops. I spoke to a guy at a Harley shop, but he said he had lots of experience on 2T bikes, so I told him what was going on. I was just desperate to get the bike running. I could tune it myself later. He said he could take the bike, but it wouldn't be done till next week. And unfortunately, he had to leave in an hour to go to a hill climb competition. (Good for him!) But before we got off the phone, he advised me to maybe switch the spark plug wires around, because it really did sound like a timing issue and I agreed. I swapped the wires and it fired up on the second kick! He was right! I'll stop by with some beer for him next week.

Here's a video. Just click on the picture below.
 
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Seizer

Well-known member
Man, isn’t that one of the best feelings? When all of that work and time and money and emotional investment fires to life?
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
Man, isn’t that one of the best feelings? When all of that work and time and money and emotional investment fires to life?

Amen! Yes, after all the money we put into our bikes, it needs to be validated with at least a start! The results are quite binary. Either it works or it doesn't. It took a ton of tedium and particularity to hedge a successful start, as I'm sure you're familiar with.

Now I'm down to the nitty gritty. My rear master doesn't seem to be bleeding correctly. I installed an old NOS kit, but the return hole may be clogged. So I'll have to take that apart and investigate. Also my electrical is a little bit whacked. The turn signals work, but the brake light doesn't. I hate electrical. I'll have to check out that damned schematic again. At least it's in color. I may actually have to buy a continuity tester to track down the pulses. But none of that will stop me from breaking in the engine :banana

But I'm quickly coming to the realization that the bike won't be ready for October's Doc Wong ride. Even if I get the electrical and brake stuff sorted, the motor will not be nearly ready enough for me to romp on it. Plus his rides go like practically all day! (and that's a good thing!) So the good news is that I have all winter to track down the bugs. It'll be ready for Thunder Hill by spring! :ride
 
Congrats on getting it running! The bike looks awesome! :thumbup

x2! :ride

48839798318_d1c351be55_c.jpg

sweet, sweet moto getting a second life in a good home ... :party
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
Thank you! Working on breaking in the motor now and all the fine tuning. Those are original Factory Pipe Products chambers, regarded as some of the finest street/track exhausts ever made for this bike! I was on the fence about buying some brand new Spec II chambers before Gary calls it quits, but I think I'm just going to send these off to Oregon this winter to have them restored. They seem to perform just fine :)
 

295566

Numbers McGee
For reals man, gorgeous bike. Amazing attention to detail. I'm envious and only WISH I had that much patience. :thumbup
 

EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
For reals man, gorgeous bike. Amazing attention to detail. I'm envious and only WISH I had that much patience. :thumbup
Thank you! I've had a very long time to figure out what to do with it. Actually for years, I wanted to build a TD3 replica, and at times, I felt I was putting way too much time into the concept phase that I thought I would never get around to building it! Then I figured that I would just slap it together and get a running bike, no matter how it looked. But if I cut out the fairing, then I could probably save a few thousand bucks on fiberglass and paint. In the end, this is pretty much what the bike was like, when I bought it in 1986. The biggest change is the seat and tail section. I'm not really even sure that Yamaha sold these wheels in gold.

Now I'm just weeding the bugs out- I can't seem to get the brake light or turn signals to work. There's a good chance it's the flasher unit since everything runs through that. I'm using LED turn signals, so that doesn't help matters.
 
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EvilTwinz

Parts Cobbler
Since I'm no magician with 2T tuning, I've been searching around for a shop in the area to do the work. Tuning vintage 2-strokes is kind of a lost dark art. Nowadays, everything is computerized- the bikes all have ECU and a new map can be uploaded fairly instantly. Or the engine can be easily analyzed and can be tweaked on a laptop. Not so much with these bikes. Rather than doing a bunch of various throttle position runs and plug chops, I think it might be more accurate to find an experienced tuner with a dyno. I gave BRG Racing (in Pacheco) a call this morning. (I was actually a little amazed that they are open on a Monday!) They said they can do it no problem. They just finished an RZ350 the other day. Yay! But I still need to wear in the motor first. Mark suggested an 800-1000 mile break-in period. Sounds reasonable considering they're going to hold that throttle open repeatedly revving up that engine. So now I'll be spending every day doing local fun runs.

The last time I rode the bike was in the early 90's. Everything on the bike was in such bad shape- it's no wonder the bike was trying to kill me. The fork tubes were bent from an accident I had crashing into the back of a car on Hwy 17 in the Santa Cruz mountains. The brakes didn't really work. The rear shocks were leaking and one of the shafts was even bent. The bias-ply tires were all worn out, etc.

Fast-forward to today. For starters the forks have been rebuilt with Race Tech components, the rear shocks are now Ikon (aka Koni). The wheels actually spin, since I replaced the bearings. I now have tubeless radial tires. I replaced the brake lines with stainless steel lines and rebuilt the calipers. And now the tachometer works! It's really a whole new bike! It rides frickin' awesome! The bike still needs to be jetted correctly, but that'll happen soon enough.

Here's a build list of some of the stuff I used (I pinched this off my blog):

• 1979 RD400F Daytona Head (uncut, unmodified)
• Pro-X Connecting Rods and Bearings
• All other internal engine parts and seals- Yamaha NOS
• Pistons and Rings 2nd Over
• NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs and Caps
• Taylor Pro Wire 8mm Silicone Spark Plug Wires
• Helix Hoses

• Boyesen Power Reeds
• Banshee Intake Boots and Crossover Tube
• Yamaha Y-Boot Intake
• Uni Filter UP-4300 Foam Air Filter
• Barnett Racing Clutch and Springs
• Factory Products Pipe Expansion Chambers

• All Balls Wheel Bearings
• EBC FA11 Kevlar Brake Pads Front & Rear
• Galfer Stainless Steel Front & Rear Brake Lines
• Bridgestone Battlax BT45 90/90H-18 Front Tire
• Bridgestone Battlax BT45 110/90H-18 Rear Tire

520 Chain Conversion
• D.I.D. 520VX2 Chain
• 17T Steel Front Sprocket
• 37T Sprocket Specialists Aluminum Rear Sprocket

Suspension
• Race Tech Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators FEGV S3002
• 40# (Blue/Black) Springs
• Race Tech Fork Springs - 0.65kg/mm

• Ikon 7610-1525 Rear Shock Absolrbers
• Swingarm Bronze Bushings
• Yamaha TZ350 Spindle Internal Shaft

Controls/Amenities
• Café Racing Seat by ClassicBikeShop.co.uk
• Woodcraft 12" Clip-Ons
• Modified Top Triple
• Galindo Superbike Grips
• CRG Lane Splitter Bar End Mirrors
• Tarozzi Rearsets
• Speed Moto Co. Aluminum Billet Headlamp Brackets
• Hella Halogen H4 154 Headlight
• PIAA Night-Tech 60/55W Halogen Headlamp Bulb


It's been an exercise in frustration and patience at times, but in the end, it'll be all worth it! I'm hoping to get this bike on the track next season!
 
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