Day 10
We heard news when we'd first arrived in
Skardu that both the
Deosai Plains (world’s second highest alpine plain) and
Babusar Pass were closed due to heavy snow fall. Unfortunately the way back to Islamabad would either require us going through both locations, or completely around - which would’ve easily added another 2~3 days. Given the clear sky in Skardu, we waited until just before noon, hoping enough snow had melted to open the way up.
Sure enough by the time we arrived at the entrance to
Deosai National Park, the guards waved us through.
What followed was 8 hours of hardcore slogging thru snow, ice, and mud.
Everyone had a couple crashes, it was pretty much impossible
not to riding over frozen mud. Good thing the Honda tech team wagon was always around to fix or replace any broken pieces.
By the time we made it to the other side of the park at sunset, a few of the novice riders in our group were experiencing hypothermia of the extremities due to improper footwear. Fortunately we took a long break by the little hole in the wall restaurant next to the police station. We were provided with hot water to warm up our feet and surprisingly delicious food, I strongly suspect that they killed a chicken in our honor just to make us fresh curry.
Jimmy Khan bravely volunteered to give Mr. Bangash an emergency foot massage, as the latter was in visible pain and discomfort by this point.
All the while Michael - who'd ridden in the truck all day due to his injured finger, heated up a pair of spare socks in the kitchen to help Alex #1 with his wet sock situation. To the cook's audible dismay, Mike had accidentally placed the socks directly over the roti/naan baking griddle, this quickly became a group running gag for the remainder of our trip.
Two hours after sunset, in almost pitch black darkness with only the stars lighting our way, the cold and exhausted group made it to the village of
Astore. What a day! Since Moin never leads tours in the winter for fear of snow closing parts of the route, I do believe we might've been the first group to have ridden Deosai under such crazy conditions!!